I need posi/gears installed...Norcal...Lockright?

The only reason for this (that I can think of) would be having different diameter tires on the rear axle, which would cause the clutches to constantly slip even while driving a straight line. You'll still have issues going to a locker type diff. and it'll wear out too...

 

consider this option.
buy a 9" thirdmember. you should be able to find one used for half of what you will spend on having your 8" built.
there is a member on this site that sells bolt in 9" housings. they use the stock 8" 5 lug axles and brakes.
doing it this way should cost less than having your 8" built.

as for your explorer, chances are the housing was bent or different size tires as said above.

clutch limited slips have been used in cars and trucks for over 50 years. if they were that unreliable, they would not still be used.

consider your explorer a fluke situation, not representative of all clutch lsds.

 

I think possibly the shop that rebuilt my exploder rear end had used a cheap rebuild kit or a botched job, also the vehicle was drive rather extremely hard....

I have spoken to many people lately and I am jumping the gun, I just keep an eye out for the "right" deal here the next couple weeks.

I think going 9" is overkill for my engine. I think a ranger 8.8 might be a better bet, or a mustang rear with sn95 axles for 5 lug. Fox body rear ends seem a little extra wide but might be okay with my wheels?

 

may I ask a few questions

what is the car going to be used for street, strip. street/strip?

What converter and what transmission mods are you willing to make

What cam are you using and what is its rpm range?

 

I am willing to buy a new converter and go manual valve body (in the plans already)

I have a C4

I am using a trick flow stage 1 with 1.7rr's to liven it up a bit.

So far from giving it a couple 2nd gear pulls on the freeway, it still had alot of power up to 6200 when I let it shift.

The motor with the small 600cfm edelbrock with 1" spacer, and weiand xcelerator, feels to be making good power from 3000-6000rpm+

 

just changing out the valve body will not do your transmission any good/ make sure it can has the proper guts in it or you will be left at the road side waiting for a tow.

Choose a gear that will put the engine at a good cruising rpm so you do not lug the engine. You may find out that a 3.73 or 3.55 gear is the right choice

 

I did some calculations and it seems that 4.11 with my 25" tires will be at like 3200 rpm or more. Does this sound about right with the C4 1:1?

 

I assume this is at 65, your rpm is going to be higher than that. Mine with a 26" tire and 3.80 is at 3300 at 65.

 

honestly going the 9" rout is about the cheapest way to put a different diff into the car. if you put any of the other 8.8 variants that you listed fabrication would be required. also there would be other considerations like wheel offsets for the different withs. no 8.8 is as narrow as a maverick 8".

 

at what speed? If you plan on doing some serious drag racing you will want to beef up the transmission

I you snapped u-bolts that is because your rear is out of square. I know guys including myself that run leaf spring setups with spools and 500+ HP and never snapped a u-bolt

 

The 8.8's would be easier to install by just welding on perches than trying to rebuild the 8" or narrow a 9" to fit. It looks like some 8.8's are marginally wider than the Mav 8" which I believe I could get away with. The wider rear axle might make more room between the tire and spring so I could get some fatter rubber to take up the gap...

I need to add a rear leaf or go with some better springs soon anyways so maybe that would be better money spent.

 

I have a 8" spooled 4.62 if your interested. $150 out of the bay area

 

I bought the 9 inch housing off of the member on here.... bolted right in use my 8 inch axles just had to get a 9 inch 28 spline from pick n pull there

I remember someone on here saying that you can install the 8.8 out of some vehicle in the mav and just run newer mustang wheels

I remember a shop posted on craigslist that would do a 373:::411 gear and new clutch swap on the 8.8 for 400 dollars.

I broke 3 8'' rears with my t5 trans 2 at the track and one on the street..... 7 passes on the 9 inch rear and not broken yet ........lol i need posi tho

 

Sorry but 4.62's and spool would rack me into a wall in no time.

I am trying to get ahold of a lock-right powertrax locker, but apparently the company got purchased by another and have not restarted production of the ford units yet. And nobody has them in stock.

I have 26" tall tires, so I think 3.80 would be perfect, but I can change tires easier than rear end gears, and it is not a daily driver....4.11's the max I will go.


I am still pushing to get some sort of traction getter and some gears before I even bother driving it anymore.

Every right corner I lay rubber...Quite irritating, but luckily consistent.

First car I have ever owned with no limited slip. I cry evertime I drive it.

 

Well now is the time...I went to three junkyards, two pick n pulls, called everywhere in the area...

I did not find a single explorer 8.8 disc rear end under 450$...

Add to the fact that a local place wanted 600$ to shorten the one side and wel on the spring perches.....


I have a appointment tuesday, at a local rear end shop, they will check it out and order the parts. Then weds will be putting in a detroit locker and 4.11 richmond gears, and new bearings seals and etc.

total seems to be about 1250$ otd, drive in drive out in a hour or two...

This takes away from my transmisison fund, so I will be just putting a off the shelf hughes converter and a forward pattern manual valve body to try to nurse the c4 along for a few months....