Give me a few minutes ill go take some pics,1 fan is the 1 that came with the radiator the other is a summi brand fan part number sum-g4909.
Thks for sharing the pix. I did'nt think there was enough rm to get that size fan in frt of rad. I got some ideas frm them..
16 psi cap installed. It was a pretty cool night tonight driving back home. Just got in and it was at 200 coming home.
Over 230 i would start worrying.....My Z06 Vette's secondary fan doesn't come on until 226.....I've touched 245 with it in NYC infamous traffic on a hot day last year........My Maverick has the opposite problem, too cold....I'm not running a thermostat and it's tough to get past 160 which i know is too cold..... Make sure your timing isn't too far advanced
My Lower hose was collapsing when I was driving... It took me a while to figure it out because at idle it was fine... Look at the lower hose while reving the engine, mine would slam shut when the rpm got up over 1500.... I would have never guessed a hose would do that,lol... I found the problem just looking at the right spot at the right time... Oh and I switched to a 16lb cap a 13lb would let it push coolant out of the overflow, with the 16lb rad stays full and overflow bottle stays dry....
what temp t-stat are you running? Because if it's a 195?.. then you are definately leaving power on the table there with less than optimum fuel and timing curves. Those temps are designed for emissions and toasty heaters in the cold.. not max power. IMHO, you need to be running the coolest one you can get in there for the summer months..especially in that climate(I use 160's in everything but ECU controlled and smog motors).. and adjust accordingly for the rest of the seasons that the car sees. I would never run anything greater than 180 in a performance motor since it gives less margin for error and adds heat to just about everything else in and around the motor.. including the oil. IF.. tuned properly.. a cooler running motor.. and engine bay.. will make more power than one that runs 20 degrees hotter. Also have to keep in mind that when the car is raced or run consistently hard for a bit.. you'll never stay at the t-stats open rating anyways. You've got the parts there for a pretty decent street/race car and I'm only giving advice in hopes that you can get the best out of them. And the best I can give is to get rid of that 195.. if that's what you're running. Then retune it with a tad bit more fuel and timing(especially at the lower rpms). An easy 6-10 horsies.. and with greater consistency.. is always nice. PS. the only negative with running a very cool t-stat.. is the added time required to warm the motor before you rpm it and lean on it. Well.. that and the added tuning to fully get what you paid for.
I am fairly certain I'm running a 190 or 195. Today driving around town I couldn't get it past 210 no matter what I did. It was a cooler day, maybe 80 degrees today. So that's a good sign. I didn't do anything different really except top it off a little more and get that new 16 psi radiator cap.
i may have set the timing a little more advanced than it was before. when we get a chance we can put it on the dyno and dial in the timing.
I was having some high temp problems even before all this rocker arm stud. Pretty much after we had that whole debacle with the leaking thermostat housing. I wonder if the thermostat is the source of any of this. I know I installed it in the correct orientation, and it does open because it goes up to almost 200 and all of a sudden drops down to 190 on initial warmup.
