Yep, mine didn't run awesome until I by-passed the wire. Have you ever measured your voltage coming out of the resistive wire? The Ignitor II is specced to run between 8V and 13V so you shouldn't run into any issues as long as you are in that range. Like I said though, in the reading I did it was like 50/50 with having to by-pass the resistive wire.
One of the biggest annoyances in control system design, no 2 systems will ever be the same. Are you on the same stock motor and wiring harness? I'm not trying to convince you that your wrong, I'm just trying to understand why I needed to by-pass and you didn't. Stock motor and Harness Copper copper Autolites Ford Racing 9mm wires an HEI conversion cap 3G alt from a Taurus for my alt, and a Optima red top for my battery I was averageing 9V on my resistance wire, 7V as a low 10 as a high. When I put in the 3G I no longer dropped below 8V ever.
The wiring is stock, I am only using the resistive wire from the harness, I removed all the factory sensors and have auto meter gauges. I measured the voltage, and I seem to remember it being around 8 or 9 volts. I spent some time checking it all since my engine didn't run well, but it was a camshaft issue.
Yep, just one of those things. If it works it works if not the by-pass is simple. I am a little jealous though, because troubleshooting that issue took me a month of adjustments until things worked right. Wish it had just worked like some peoples did.
Now that's the truth... On my '69 Cobra Jet Fairlane I use a Petronix to trigger a Crane Hi-6 capacitive discharge system, fires a MSD coil... Resistor is still in system but since the Petronix is only handling a small amount of current, there is 12v at the input to the Hi-6, which gets it's voltage from a direct connection to the battery... The Comet has a Petronix as well but I haven't checked into how it's wired up, still has stock coil...
According to my tracking info, I'll receive the ignitor tomorrow. I plan a stop a radio shack today to see if they have the relay. Thanks for all the replies and info! If anyone has some pics of their relay setup I'd like to see em.
I installed the ignitor II and Flamethrower coil with no problems. I noticed the difference right away. Now Im working on bypassing the resistance wire, I have the relay, crimps, wire and fuse. Im assuming the fuse goes between the battery and the relay. Also the wires coming off the pertronix are 20 guage (or something like that). Does it matter if I splice a 10 guage wire into the 20 guage to connect to the relay or should I keep those wires at 20 guage?
Battery -> 10awg wire -> relay -> whatever wire -> coil -> 20 AWG -> petronix You should have at least 3 seperate wires no splicing wires together.
The Pertronix will work with or without the resistor (pink) wire in circuit. Good thing you are using the Pert II with the Flamethrower coil. Otherwise eliminating the resistor wire could be damaging to the stock yellow top coil which should always be used with the resistor (pink) wire still in circuit. Your choice in this case. RS
Well I just finished wiring everything up last night.....took me a week from start to finish (ignitor install through relay wiring) because my wife thought putting new flooring in the bedroom was the priority. But after it was all said and done (still got flooring to do though) it started right up. I adjusted the timing to 8, adjusted idle and it seemed to run great. Except thats where it sat because the weather got so nasty last night I didnt want to take it out. I should be able to get it out on the road this afternoon (barring asteroids etc) and get it above 0 mph. Thanks all for the help, advice and info. Heres hoping I dont melt something down or start a fire with my zero electronic skills.
