oh ok, thats what i thought, i should be able to just buy the mounts and bolt the 289 right in right?
As I understand it the 302 is little more than a 289 with a bigger bore and stroke as well. And a little more nickel in the block to make it stronger. http://www.ehow.com/info_12050086_difference-between-ford-302-289-351-engine.html like I said though before... what's the point this guy knows everything.
at the same time when using a 289 or any older motor you should have the valve seats changed over for our fuel i have a 68 302 in my car now ran it for about 3 years and started getting a pretty good skip pulled the heads and the seats are shot
The V8 swap involves changing quite a few components, there are threads to help... http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=4581
The bore is same, main difference is rod length and .130 longer stroke of the 302 vs 289... Thanks again...
yep.. he'll want to do at least the exhaust seats to keep them from pounding out and losing massive flow across the newly recessed and extra wide .150+ thou seats at that point. And if he runs the prerequisite higher spring pressures on a performance cam?.. it gets even worse with quicker onset of valve recession. PS. some times it's like watching a tennis match between 2 comedians with PHd's around here.
are you saying your existing heads already have hardened exhaust seats? not possible to be stock on early motors.. unless someone already rebuilt the head prior and added them. which would save you about $100 or more.
no, i dont have the v8 yet, i still have the l6. but when i get it its going to be of a 66, so i want to know if i have to gring the old seats out or not. also, i read on another site that the v8 cross member is optional, is that true?
yes you'll need hardened seats on at LEAST the exhausts since they didn't make it into these/most motors until late 70's and 80's. Unless you run the motor lean for too long a time(causes extra heat).. the intakes are generally cooled well enough by the fuel to not worry about it. That is of course unless you want the motor to last well beyond 200k miles or something.. then by all means.. do them all. Not sure about "optional".. but I believe they didn't make it into the V8 cars until a couple years after these cars were produced. I would run one for sure with all the flex in the front ends of these cars. Sure won't hurt. AFAIK.. all motor mounts will be the same as the blocks mounting bosses are cast identical to each other and you need only to get the correct one for the chassis it's going into.
Not to mention using a zinc additive in the oil to protect the flat tappet cam shaft, every time you change the oil.
damn, im kinda thinking this is gonna be a little more expensive than i can manage if i do it the way i want to. can i just change the AOD bell housing to fit my l6?
