oops C6 I thought it said v6 cause you were talking about it last night. I won't have HP right away for c6... Don't I have to do a lot of cutting to get that to fit
couple things....hate to hijack, but I felt the need. C4 vs C6: C4 lighter weight, takes a BUNCH less HP to run it, expect a car to be .3-.6 faster in the 1/4 with a C4 over a C6. Will a C4 handle the power? Darn betchya it will! I know of some folks running C4s behind 700 HP 514's in nearly 4000 lb cars and they aren't easy on 'em...and they don't break. It's all in the build. No, they're not stock but it doesn't take much to get a C4 to put up with a ton of power/torque. I'd run one if the PG wasn't so much more consistent and easy to use. C6 is a great trans, just not performance oriented. When they work, they're as close to bulletproof as you can get, but when they don't work they're a booger to figure out what's ailing them. Sometimes it just takes getting another core and starting over. Luckily, every one of 'em I've had has been tougher than shoe leather. Great for pulling loads, not so great for a race car. As far as the windsors having large main bearings, yes....they do. BUT, with the availability of the larger strokers (jeez, you can get a 408 kit for less than $1000 now!) the RPM ceiling comes down and you don't have to be concerned with the huge mains anymore. They only time it comes into play is when you're building a 8500+ roundy-round car that is constantly above 7000. If 3" mains were a big problem, wouldn't the BBF's have 2.75 (cleveland) mains? Again...they don't have to spin a 460-based engine very hard to make serious power. Same principle applies. Also, I'd rather have a large main than a smaller one for a bracket car/street car application. Them cranks are darn near indestructible! 'Course some people can break anything. Including me!
Our 351w track engine is built with the small main crank using spacers. It is turned as high as 7800 rpm. With the heads used the airflow begins to be the limiting factor for power in the upper area. The airflow is enough to make 550 hp presently with the cam used. For the street you won't be anywhere near that kind of performance level and rpm. You must understand that as you develope the torque from such engine setups that the transmission and rear will be marginal in reliability and so the cost goes up in addition to the engine build or the car sets more than it is run, from broken parts. Depending on how far you want to go, building a standard 351w with good heads and cam to match the intended use, intake and about a 700 cfm carb will be far more powerful than a stock 302. Right now ROUSH 200 heads fully assembled with 2.02 x 1.60 valves are $950. A cam kit is about $110 for a 2500 to 6500 grind. A good crank kit comes in around $1400. Add more for block prep and misc parts and labor and you talking about $3000 +/- to get a motor togather that should be in the 350 to 400 hp range. I would not try to shoot for it all the first time around. Your going to break drive line parts even with this level of engine. Visit www.towersandharwood.com. a Ford performance supplier to see some of the parts and prices.
pretty much it will be easier and almost as cheap to just buy a new 351w with everything done to it? or should i say 408w with all the mods from ebay or something new?
"Elementary Watson!" I was making my remark from a historical context, the 'ol school' view of the W vs C arguement. Maybe I didn't make that clear. Yes, longer strokes make more low rpm power, so the bearing size is less of a factor. Gotta love them stroker kits! Used to be that you had to use a 400M crank and Dodge rods! Dave
