As you may know from another thread I have had problems with backfiring and popping on my 351w, yesterday the local Pick n Pull had a half price sale and I went and found some heads to replace mine, they are D80E heads, I know they have the 69cc chamber and really not great heads and will produce low compression, but I got them and they appear to have been worked on very recently, valves look great and valve guide seals are still the nice orange color and they were extremely clean heads, paid $59.00 for the pair, I also think the hardened valve seats will help with the fuel containing ethanol, my question is this, my heads I have now do not have the rail type rockers in them and these new heads do, I do not yet know but suspect there may be a difference in push rod length because of the rail type rockers, if there is a difference, say the "new" heads pushrods are longer, should I use those longer pushrods I got with the new heads? or will I need to figure out just what length pushrods I need? and if I need to figure out the length I need, how do I go about doing so? Sorry so long of a post but I just want to try and get it right, not worried about performance with these heads, I will be getting the original '69 351 windsor heads and engine rebuilt over the summer. right now I just wanna drive my Grabber
The D8OE heads have Pedestal rockers. The "pre" D8OE heads had rail rockers. They both use the same length pushrods
Maybe I don't...ummm no I know I don't know what I'm talking about on these heads then, rail or pedestal.....
351w heads early 315w has a different deck height than the 78 motor 78 heads use the same valves as a 302. check your pushrod length by coloring the rocker were it hits the valve stem and cranking the motor through a few revolutions, the color should be in the center of the valve stem or change pushrods until it is.
Depends on how much they had removed. Most times, not enough to need to change the pushrods. There's enough clearance built into the lifters to take up the slack for minor changes.
The deck height has nothing to do with his pushrod length here, he's swapping heads, not the block.And as he stated, it's only going to be temporary til he gets the 69 heads done. He's going to be down on power due to the smaller valves and larger chambers, but that should be all. He should have looked for a set of GT40 heads (not the "P" heads) while he was in that yard, getting those, he could have just used them and shelved the 69 heads. One other thing he'll have to watch if he's using the 69 style intake is he'll have to tap and plug the coolant port bolt holes in the intake, otherwise he'll be dealin with a massive coolant leak soon as he fills the radiator.
Wouldn't I have needed to drill out the bolt holes in the GT40 heads to accept the larger bolts for the 351W? The intake I am using now is and Edelbrock so no issues there.
That may have changed on the later heads but in the '95 Motorsport calogue, it's stated if used on 289/302 blocks all Motorsport heads incl L302(GT40), L303, E351 as well as the aluminum heads require special 7/16" washer face bolts... Says nothing at all about any special procedure necessary to bolt these heads on a 351 with 1/2" bolts... The GT40P head does need to be drilled but those were not suggested...
Drilling them to 1/2" is a very minor job, you can do yourself. The washer suggestion was intended to protect the aluminum heads from damage by the bolts. They can also be used to use 351 iron heads on a 302 block using 7/16" head bolts.
Often the heads sold by Ford Motorsports were different than what went onto factory cars, they were considered aftermarket items. For example, around 2002 I bought new Ford Racing GT40P heads. They had no external thermactor fittings and higher lift springs than what went out the door on Explorers, etc. I was surprised that Ford would have a different casting for their aftermarket iron heads.
