I have a 302 with an AOD in my mav and to me the engine sits tilted down at the rear. I have the tranny shimmed up as close as I can get it to the tunnel and it still is angled down at the back, so much so that the driveshaft appears to go at an upward angle from the trans. And I am sure this is where I am getting a driveline vibration from. Is there a way to lower the front of the motor at the front mounts? That is the only thing I havent tried yet. The car was originally a 6 cylinder, and I have all the brackets from the 302 that was in a 73 mav, so I know they are correct.
The AOD is a much bigger trans than the C4. What you may have to do to get it to fit is cut the support brace flush with the upper tunnel that runs from the trans mount up and over to the other side. I know that I have had to do this with cars I have put C6 transmissions in. There are alot of people on here that have installed the AOD and hopefully they will chime in.
My AOD hits the floor a little. At certin speeds it causes a weird vibration. What I had to do for the cross member was weld a piece of tubing between the ears and mont it on the back side of the floor support with 6" bolts. The engine will be tilted back slightly it most cars.
What kinda transmission bracket/mount are you using? Someone makes adjustable motor mounts, I'll see if I can find a link.
I have a home made crossmember and the stock trans mount. The trans is as close to the tunnel as I can get it w/o touching. If I cant lower the front I may have to cut out the upper support piece.
We've used these on a few cars at the Mustang shop, they should be adaptable to Mavericks: http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rmp&Product_Code=6110 But if you are installing a AOD, you shouldn't need them with the proper Maverick engine mounts, and Franks cross member.
I have seen those mounts before(and the trans cross members are nicer yet) and they are only good for the linear plane adjustments(front/rear/side to side). Not necessarily for dropping the motor deeper into the cradle. Although you can weld them in after trimming in about any way you choose of course. I'm thinking he will need to mod the frame pedastels and/or the mount itself to get his angles right. Just a quick glance into my GT's empty bay shows me that they can both be easily hole slotted(and preferably slot rewelded to eliminate potential movement) to allow a quick 1 inch drop. Some additional clearancing/notching will surely allow more than that too. PS. My S10 Blaser V8 conversion mounts had my engine rake far more severe than that(even with the RPM manifolds forward rake the carb sat tilted).. and the above mentioned slotting/notching worked well for dropping it more than 1.75 inches.. and nealry 2.5 back.
