I really like the 268H, I had one in 2 different 289's, one was in the Maverick and the other was in a 66' F100. They both ran really nice and strong and had a decent little thump at idle. I think it matches your stock compression well.
I'm thinking about doing a cam and timing chain swap in my smog 302. That cam might liven it up a little.
The Mav was a C4, the F100 was a 3 speed on the column, both idled great, wasn't much higher than stock if at all and had great vacuum I think in the 18-20 range, guessing 600-750rpm at idle. The Maverick 289 was a .060 over block donated to me by a friend of my dad, I just honed it up and put a cheap cast piston rebuild kit in it, lightly ported the 289 heads with stock valves and springs, Comp roller tip rockers, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake and 600cfm carb. I liked it so much that when it came time to replace the tired 240 in the F100 I copied everything about that engine but was .030 over. Both were around 9:1 compression.
I also recommend the 268H. Before my 351w, I had a 268H in my 302 for a good while. I loved it. Flat top pistons but otherwise mostly stock. Had a Performer RPM manifold, Edelbrock (later Holley) 600 carb, stock heads, stock manifolds, stock gear, kitted C4 and a 2500 stall. It sounded great, had a good hard pull throughout its RPM range, it was just an all around great setup for a fun daily driver. I beat the hell out of it and the stock studs didn't care a bit. Even had 1.7 roller-tipped rocker arms in there for a couple of years.
Thks for the info. I am considering a cam swap when I pull a comp ck soon to determine why my engine won't idle at all till it gets to abt 150temp. I am going to remove the heads and get a valve job/head over haul among other things. The cam in the car now has only pulled 14" vac when it was running vry nice. Now vac is erratic "up/down". It wud idle nice arnd 7-800 w/ nice little lope. I don't know anything abt the engine intenally cept it don't smoke, leak oil or use oil to any degree. Anyway, it ran great for the 3+ yrs I have owned it. So I guess it's time to pull it apart. Also, I was wondering if U cud use roller tips w/ flat tappet cams.. Interesting to know u cud use 1.7's w/o screw in studs and no issues. When/if I replace my cam or do engine overhaul this is the cam I will probably buy. My engine has long tube headers, new 600 Holley , ci heads and DS 2 ign. I know the compression is not high; I can burn 87 octane w/o any ping problems. Anyway, waiting till it warms up a little more, hopefully I can get to work on it soon " like nx week". BTW: I have folks in the Horn Lake and Olive Branch area.
To me roller tipped rockers are pretty much a waste of money. The real friction to be lost is in the fulcrum. The roller tips lose almost nothing in terms of friction. If you'll watch a stock rocker go slowly thru it's cycle, you will see it actually rolls across the tip of the valve, the rocker contact area is not flat, but slightly curved. If you're going to buy rockers, buy full roller rockers. The price difference is really not that much between the two styles.
I didn't buy them for the roller tips so much as the ratio. Not a lot of 1.7 rail rockers out there besides the Comp Magnums.
I agree with that but these were budget builds done around 20 years ago. The market wasn't quite as friendly as it is now when it comes to true roller rockers. The price gap was a whole lot bigger between the two types back then, plus I needed the rail type since I didn't have the budget for machine work or heads at the time. They have done well for me but if I build anything more serious in the near future I will be going with full roller.
While I'm on the same page as baddad about those types of rocker arms.. I certainly do hear ya there. Sometimes small improvements and upgrades are all that's needed for milder builds. The one really good thing that I will say about those aftermarket roller tipped knockoffs is this. The factory rockers were sometimes HORRENDOUS with ratio varition(well over .5 ratio variation at times).. and those aftermarket units are usually built to much closer tolerance to advertized than stock will ever be. That alone can sometimes help a motor make more consistent power. Then add the bump in lift from the higher ratio.. and you've gotten your moneys worth.
Cam is installed and sounds nice ....sounds a little cleaner it gave me more throttle response it has a little lope at idle ...... I wil post up a vid
See if these work..... http://m.facebook.com/#!/1000027373...wend=1364799599&ustart&__user=100002737314703
