"The Taurus fan ran 24-26 amps on low, with a 32 amp startup spike Then on high it used about 28-29 amps with a 40-45 amp startup spike" Checked my current thermostat relay and it is good for 40Amps. I may just be able to bolt her right on! I am going to run it on high, I have a parts place (LKQ) delivering it weds. I will be spending a good amount of time making the shroud it has fit as well as possible. Alternator has 180A so I have plenty of go juice.
I believe 40amp relay is not going to cut it; esp.if ur going to run it on high. Some of the guys who've done this mod may want to chime it. My brother was using 30/40 amp setup on his 51 Buick, sml blk cheby and kept blowing them. He switched to 70amp and the problem disappeared.
That IS a good read. I fused the Taurus fan at 80A, used relays to switch the low speed off when hi speed comes on, and powered the fan and relays from constant on sources. If the fan and controls are powered from switched source(s), starting the engine when its hot could cause fan startup from dead stop to hi speed.
this is what a lot of us find to work best without burning up controllers, fans or blowing fuses...Taurus fan http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=73379&highlight=volvo+relay&page=4 it's mounted using the stock shroud mounting bolts and holes. Tim just put this setup in Collins car, he ran it through a 30 amp breaker to the relay/controller... the Volvo relay is really a...controller...it switches from low to high and back.
Well, I am having trouble finding a used Taurus fan. Tried all the local places. If I buy a new one from oreileys is it going to work as well as a used stock one? Anyone have any exp on the new ones?
I got one from "VDO" it looks decent, with some addition of foam and such I think it will fit nicely. 3 wires are Black Brown with yellow stripe Brown with orange stripe. Now ill look back and figure out which one is the high speed
The seimens vdo is the same thing apparently. It did not fit with my preform electric water pump. I had to cut its depth down about 1". It is literally wedged between the pump and radiator right now. I installed it with one bolt, and 3 zip ties for now. Connected it to my 40a thermostat relay from oreileys, with a fuse from it to the fan (25A ATC). I am running a preform electric water pump on with the key off a relay. 16lbs radiator cap. SILLA aluminum radiator. NO THERMOSTAT just a "restrictor". It wont warm up just idling takes forever. But with a VERY short drive it gets up to around 160-180 within 2 minutes of driving around town. If I run through 1-3rd real quick and stop the temp will get to 180, fan will kick on for THREE or FOUR seconds, and shut off. It will kick on once every 30 seconds-1 minute for a few more seconds and then off again. Temps at idle sitting never get above the fan turn on point. You can watch the water temp drop everytime the fan kicks on. So all in all the aftermarket Taurus fan is working 10x better than my 1000cfm 14" hayden fan with no shroud. It melted my slow blow 25A atc fuse withing about 15 minutes of its operation. I am putting in a maxi with 40A fuse and a bit larger wiring from the relay to the fan.
Also I should add that the fan is not as noisy as I first thought it would be. I am slightly concerned about running a restrictor on a street car, I am worried that on the freeway the coolant temp will be too low (below 160) as all the airflow through the radiator + no thermostat will let it continuously cool? Who knows the car needs way more work before it goes down the freeway anyways! Also should mention it is about 61 degrees this morning so have not tested it in the heat yet.
I use the MAXI fuse sized circuit breakers for the fans. They make 20, 30, 40, 60 amps for sure, I'm sure many other sizes as well, and they fit in the MAXI fuse holders.
Here is how I plan to use my Taurus fan: 180 T-stat LOW on at 195 HIGH on at 205 or A/C This way, radiator alone gets to try to keep it cool by itself up to 195 (highway speeds). If the temp rises to about 195, then LOW kicks in to help. If LOW cannot handle it, bring in the HIGH. Also, A/C trumps temp and brings in the HIGH.
With the AC switching hi speed on, your fan will go from stopped to hi speed if you start the engine with the AC on. If the AC switches on the low speed. that can be avoided. IMO, its better to have the AC turn low speed on and let temperature control the hi speed. Also if the primary side uses a switched power source, starting a hot engine can turn on hi speed when the fan is stopped.
All great points. My mitigation is ECM controlled latency and hysteresis. The MS3X supports external inputs to control outputs and can perform logic (not going directly to HIGH if LOW is not already called) with delays.