If i do convert to m/s I will keep the p/s gear box.I just really want to get rid of that slop.I added a Monte carlo, export brace, as well as the HD belly bar and it really tightened things up but the steering wheel has too much play still.
its possible for the power steering fluid to squirt out of the top of the pump when steering with out the pump pumping. so you may make a mess. dont worry it wont damage anything. i converted my car in the same way. i kept the power steering box. i only had 165 tires on so it was really easy to steer. i plan on using the power box with manual stuff on my current build but i plan on running a 255 or 245 front tire so it will be interesting to see how hard it is. if its too much then ill switch to the borenson power steering box.
running without belt is not comparing apples to apples. With the power assist cylinder still attached it adds to the effort to steer. You are still pushing fluid, that's why fluid gets pushed out. It will be easier once converted but not as easy as with a manual box. Just keep this in mind while you are testing. My car is m/s but I am converting to the p/s box. like Bryant mentioned, the borgeson box is the way to go if you want to maintain the stock configuration in your steering set up.
While there is no doubt some truth in this, once the fluid has equalized in the ram minimal additional effort will be required... Anyway dumping the P/S because it's loose isn't the necessary going to be the fix, are you sure the steering sector is tight? How about the coupler(rag joint), they are famed for being loose and will only be more so when the added effort of M/S is factored in... Is the valve centering adjustment correct(nut under the cap at end of valve)?
In addition to the control valve adjustment, here's a couple of links for adjusting the steering box. It's a little involved to do it properly but both should be checked. http://1bad6t.com/Maverick/repair/steering_01.html http://www.stangerssite.com/adjustment.html
I have never done any of these adjustments or checked the rag joint.Is this located on the steering box? I also hate the sound of the pump each time I turn as well as all the fluid that it leaks..I recently replaced the two pressure hoses and it still leaks quite a bit.So I figured I could ditch all these troubles by switching to m/s
The rag joint is between the steering sector and end of column, it's basically a coupler that has a piece of bias ply tire sidewall to give it some flexibility... In reality we probably all should replace ours, especially with manual steering as the extra effort places high stress on it... Speaking of extra effort often the manual steering boxes are worn more than a P/S unit for same reason... Mine joint was OK so I bead blasted it and slapped on some clear paint...
wonder if there is a U-joint/coupler type witht he right splines we could get rid of that rag joint with? Never thought about it before but might be worth checking into.
The idea of rag joint is joint is to insulate the steering from vibration and make up for probable misalignment of the column to sector... I suppose a solid coupler could be used, but you'd need to check alignment of the steering column to the steering sector... Dorman markets a rebuild kit to replace the rubber coupler, I suppose one could machine a plate(basically a large washer with four holes) that replaces or just add on top of rubber joint(the rubber would still be there in case solid coupler failed)... Years ago I had a '67 Falcon that had a solid shaft steering sector, I don't remember any noticeable harshness in it's steering(not exactly the safest thing having a 4 ft spear aimed at your chest)... I would not have known but I swapped the column to one from a '68 when I did a 351 conversion and found orig '67 column shift linkage wasn't exactly compatible with 351 exhaust manifold...
