Question about loc-tite

Discussion in 'Technical' started by mavgrab302, Nov 14, 2013.

  1. mavgrab302

    mavgrab302 MCCI Florida State Rep

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    Thanks for the info, I was thinking I needed something on the flywheel bolts. I wouldn't want that to come loose... Cam bolt will get a drop for sure...

    Now lets talk about sealant... What bolts go through a water jacket ?
     
  2. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Do any?

    It has been so long since I messed with heads and intake. I think I used PFT teflon paste on my intake bolts. Don't remember for sure, but not sure if they went through water jackets or not. :huh:
     
  3. simple man

    simple man Member

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    I know that they should be sealed, but whether Loctite would seal adequately I don't know! :)
     
  4. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

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    I used blue Loc-tite on my flywheel bolts.
     
  5. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member Supporting Member

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    Use thread sealant on the flywheel bolts. The holes in the crank flange are open to the crank case and oil can seep out through the threads. I like Permatex myself.
    Early 302 blocks have blind head bolt holes. Only the thin-deck 5.0 blocks have head bolts exposed to the water jacket, the lower bolt holes. I use Permatex there, too.
     
  6. mavgrab302

    mavgrab302 MCCI Florida State Rep

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    Thanks for the info... permatex sealant on the flywheel bolts and being a 74 block I don't need it anywhere else, correct?
     
  7. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    i use red and blue loctite on all the differentials i build.
    the one thing that has barely been touched on is the volume that is used.
    i try to put only a drop of red on what ever bolt its used on. it when a bolt is doused in the red, that is when it becomes a problem to remove. a drop will lock the bolt just fine.
    i use red on ring gear bolts, pinion nuts, and cap bolts. i use blue on the smaller bolts like spanner locks, pinion supports, and cross shaft retaining bolts.

    ive started to use the stick form of blue. i found that liquid blue has a tendency to break down or separate and become runny causing a good amount to get wasted when trying to just get drop on a bolt. the stick is very easy to control the amount that is applied and doesn't waste any.

    loctite is not cheap so its worth it in a shop to not waste it.

    every once in a while ill get a car in that some idiot used lock tite on the lug nuts!!! thats is the worse because it will strip studs or break the stud.

    red lock tite will seal a bolt like a flex plate bolt into the crank from oil coming through. it works well on pipe thread also if you dont want to tighten the fitting too much.

    on engines i use lock tite on the cam bolt, balancer bolt, pulley bolts, flywheel bolts, and clutch bolts. basicly any bolt that is on something that rotates, gets locktite, except for wheel lug nuts.

    one last place is the drive shaft u-bolts. i will use blue lock tite on the nuts and then only tighten them to no more than 15ft/lbs. any more will distort the bearing cap and cause premature failure of the u-joint.
     
  8. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    Bryant and I are totally on the same page when and where to use these products.

    A tiny amount of this stuff goes along way. One of the reasons I really like the gel. (y)
     
  9. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    ive never tried the gel, but just the fact that gel is not runny would make it efficient to use. i will have to try it.
     

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