If you're running dual springs on pressed in stud heads, that's likely your problem, the rocker studs are being pulled out of the heads from the heavier spring pressure. Any thing bigger than Comp's 268H needs screw in studs, or pedestal rockers (bolt down)
You're wrong. The cam gear can be at either 12 or 6 o'clock when timing the cam to the crank. The crank tirns at twice the speed of the cam. Thus it can be at either position and still be correct. Set it up at 6 o'clock, rotate the crank one revolution and the timing dot on the cam gear will then be at 12 o'clock.
No, it isn't. You can remove a rocker cover and look at the position of the rocker arms to see that both valves are closed.
being the heads were just assembled, not likely bad... "i had the machine shop assemble the valves, springs, whatnot." these should fall under "whatnot"...
Before I waste any time getting in over my head I always stick with a basic vacuum gauge check as my first step if I suspect a bad valve or cam lobe.
Not sure if you found the issue but what oil did you specifically use as on shelf oils have calcium detergents which is really bad for our engines more so when its a fresh engine rebuild or cam swap ..calcium strips any protective layer(zinc phosphorous and creates metal to metal contact) Z-paste for cam lube is the best Joe gibbs is another great choice Joe gibbs HR-2 is the best choice for oil with ZDDP and no Calcium detergents to strip any lube cushion..so no metel to metel contact joe gibbs BR30 is best for engine breakin
