Actually if you're not going power the original pedal can be used, disc brakes were offered without power assist...
I would also use the disc brake master cylinder that has the larger reservoir for the discs. - 74 with manual brakes is the one I used. If the new master cylinder comes with a pushrod, compare it to yours before inserting it in the master cylinder to make sure it isn't too long. One that is too long will give you an abnormally high pedal and is uncomfortable to drive. I used my original pushrod after forcibly removing it from the old drum brake master cylinder.
You might be able to use your existing tie rod ends then. The way to check would be to look up the part numbers for each year and make sure it didn't change. I put a 77 Mav disc brake MC in mine, along with a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. This is non-assisted, and works well. You do have to throw some leg at it. If you switch to the later MC, you will need to use the shorter pushrod out of the original MC, or the pedal ends up high. Alternately, there are adjustable pushrods out there. Some folks have used the drum brake MC and claim it is fine. I had a problem with rapid pad wear and changed the MC trying to troubleshoot it, because I was told that there is a residual pressure valve in the drum MC and that was keeping the brakes engaged all the time. I may have been sticky calipers, too, so I am not sure. We got it working right eventually.
Thanks i will check the part numbers! I was already leaning towards replacing the MC and proportioning valve because i have seen some members say it was fine and others who needed to change it out. Id rather do it all at once so i don't have to question it later. With the crappy weather here in Ohio I'll prolly get to start on this around march I'm ready for driving season already!