302 timing questions

:confused:
any one know the timing for a small block 302 ford?and
the total degrees advance?

 

i don't know what the total is but for 1971-75 my book says 6 btdc, 76 shows 12 btdc so i would guess that somewhere around there would be a good starting point. of course that was a maverick book. mustang or something else might be different.

 

Total advance should not be more than 38 degees. That is a total of inital plus centrifigal and vacuum.

 

Hate to rain on anyone's parade, but you dont check timing with the vacuum advance hooked up. It says specifically in the service manual to disconnect it to check initial timing. If you leave it connected and set the initial to, say, 10 degrees, the motor will be a turd because it's retarded so far. My buddy found this out the hard way on a big-block bowtie on an airboat, it was so retarded that it sucked one exhaust valve due to the valve overheating. Also, different engines might need more or less timing, depending on many things like valve timing (camshaft profile), compression ratio, ambient temperatures, type of fuel, etc. We've actually run one of our 306's with over 42 degrees for 2 seasons, that's where that particular engine liked to run. But for most milder (read close to stock) engines, initial should be 8-12, total between 32-38 BTDC.

 

real tech info

do you know how to read? Then get a tech manual and and start there. It's real hard to do just read the book.

 

I'm leaving Rickyracer's post alone....

 

grabber, so there is no misunderstanding.
The inital timing is set at 6 degrees before top center at idle with the vacuum disconnected from the dist. and plugged.
You ask about the total. It should not be greater than about 38 degrees above about 2500 to 3000 RPM.
The total includes the amount the centrifigal weights will apply as well as the vacuum advance amount that is added to the inital 6 degrees.
The total advance an engine will accept with out potoential problems (in general) is dependent on the fuel used, the combustion chamber shape, operating temperature and the compression ratio.
It is general and well known, that 38 degrees is about the most to allow for a stock headed 302 engine unless it is modified. The gereral rule is to get a modified engine to make the most power with the least ignition advance.
Every engine will respond to a different amount of total +/-.

 

just wanted to mention, I've never gotten my car to run at 6* BTDC.
8 gets "chuggy", 6 kills it dead.
even idling around 500, 8* is as low as she'll go.

 

Either you are doing something wrong (reading the marks) or your timing marks are incorrect. 500 is to low. It should be at least 750 rpm idle. Set it to up, if it drops to low.
To check your time marks, get first cylinder up to top center on compression. The pointer and the Zero line should line up. At that point, the dist. rotor should be pointing to the directly to the cap post 1.
6 or 8 degrees is'nt a fast rule in the performance game but should not kill the engine as you are saying.

 

I only tried 500 rpms because less RPM = less timing required.
its not like it bogs down or loses RPM until it dies, if I set the timing to 6* she just stops cold.
My cousin's 68 289 is the same way.
different lights, etc...
for one, I know the 74 has the cam retarded 4* from factory.
Dunno about his 289, should be straight up.

 

Your statement of less rpm = less timing needed (at idle) is of no consequence. I have owned 302s a lot of years and never saw what you are saying. At any given idle rpm, if the timing is moved either advanced to retarded the engine rpm will move with it, so has to be corrected with the stop screw to compensate for the inital ignition timing you select.
The 302 Fuel Injection engines are base timed at 10* and idle at about 750 normally. Many, advance the timing to 14*, or more sometimes, but still run the idle a 750-800 rpm
I don't think I'm going to convince you differently , so you need to get into an automotive book and see what i'm trying to tell you.
Wish you the best.

 

look man, I'm not trying to start a #$$## arguement so back off.
I stated that MY CAR, nor MY COUSIN'S CAR will run AT ALL with 6* timing.
lower RPM requires less timing, this is factual.
To see if 6* was even feasible I lowered my idle to 500rpms.
It is not feasible on MY CAR.
if it works for you FINE.
I didn't want the poster above to get into the same situation as me and think there is something wrong with his car because it won't run at 6*.
at 8* it chugs, at 6* it simply cuts off.
You don't believe me, fine.
I don't give a...
You call me a liar or incompetent...

 

Have a good day my friend. You have the problem, I don't.
I can tell when you deteriate into foul langauge the cause is lost.
You just have to learn the hard way. Bye.

 

302 Timing


I just sent mavman a message saying what a cool site this is. I called it my favorite watering hole for my Mav obsession. Funny , the language is becoming like the watering holes I don't go to anymore. If you can't be cool....act cool and no one will know the difference!

 

whatever man.
I stated a fact.
You insinuate I don't know how to set my timing.

I didn't come here to start crap. I don't appreciate being disrespected.

its of no consequence?
higher RPM requires higher timing. Lower RPM requires lower timing.
Simple fact.
2 of the Windsor engines I've tried 6* on WILL NOT RUN.
You insinuate I don't know what I'm doing.
You are not the end all be all GOD of the Windsor block, I care not how long you've owned 302s.
I've been working on them for a good ten years. I see stuff I've never seen before on a regular basis.
To admit otherwise either shows you don't get out much or you're too damned stubborn to say otherwise.
You were on my respected list...