I've been watching this site for some time, and you people know what your talking about. I am a 54 year old that never had a hot rod, and now it's my turn. I have a 77 Mav with 55k miles, and looking to bolt on some goodies to increase HP. One of you said to get the Hedman Hedders for a 302, but they don't make them for my year. Are the Hooker headers worth buying for a 77? I plan on stripping all the emmission control crap off, and adding an Edelbrock manifold with a 4bbl carb. I wanted to buy the edelbrock 600cfm with an electric choke, but some of you seem to prefer the Holly carb. Which one??? My 302 has a primitive electronic ignition, and considering an MSD system. Is that a good move for better HP? Can anyone recommend a mild cam & lifter setup that this old Shop Teacher can install without too much trouble? Is the B&M tranny kit worthwhile to increase transmission performance? This is intended to be strictly a steet machine, and no racing. Any opinions would be appreciated.
I think Old Guy would be able to answer this one. You can make your own shift kit for about $0.25 for a C4. Works great with street machines as it shifts firm, but at part throttle it will not jar your teeth out like some kits do. The Hedman hedders should fit just fine, and are a bunch cheaper than the Hookers. One thing to consider is power steering, you'll need a drop bracket that moves the steering cylinder slightly with either the hedmans or the hooker headers. As for carbs, I prefer Edelbrock carbs for street driving, though I won't pass up a Holley either. The Edelbrock seems to hold a tune longer and they seem to work better at part throttle than most Holley's I've used. What kind of electronic ignition does it have? If it's a factory Duraspark, it can be made to perform just as well as ANY MSD or Accel (or any other aftermarket ignition) with a few mods and a good coil. The best part is you can get a factory contol module for about $25 at the local parts store, rather than have to shell out nearly $200 for a 6AL box that can only be found at speed shops. I actually run 2 duraspark modules, one is bolted to the fenderwell behind the other (on the backside) in my Mustang for a spare, if one fails, I just plug in the other one. As with most 302's, the Mavericks respond well to aftermarket free-flowing intake and exhaust systems. Just adding a set of headers and a good intake and carb can open up probably close to 50 or more HP on a stocker, then add a camshaft and lifters and that could easily double.
for what you want, an msd isn't really needed. spend the money elsewhere. any good hydraulic cam and lifters with duration of low 220s @ .050 and just under .5 inch valve lift will work fine. a shift kit of some kind or a street/strip valve body will pep things up. when you swap the cam put in a pre 1972 timing set. in 72 or 73 ford severely retarded the cam timing by screwing with the crank gear. either brand of carb will work well for street use. the holley is more tunable, and better known by tuners. headers are tricky. hookers are pricey , but sometimes worth the extra. i took off the power steering, and moved the rear 2 tubes on each side of a cheap set of summit headers. you might not want to get that involved with cutting and welding. i've built a couple of sets of headers in the past, so while i don't enjoy major surgery, i can do it if needed. if you have the heads off, a valve job and port matching the exhaust ports to the gaskets will help a bit. these heads are hurting on the exhaust side. put lighter advance springs in the distributor to bring the timing in a little faster. if you are really ambitious, put a set of 3.55 gears in it, unless you want to keep your hiway mileage up. above all, have fun. and i'm 57.
Mavman, thanks for the input. I'm trying to gather enough info and opinions to do this project once, and do it right the 1st time. The ignition is original duraspark. I'll stick with it until I get the hedders and intake/carb done. Then I'll come back and ask you more questions. You have me kind of spooked with two modules! Does your's fail often, or are you a Boy Scout that's "always prepared"? I'd prefer to get the Heddman Hedders, but they don't list my year. Will the ones listed still fit my 77? Hooker lists them for 77, but you're right, they don't give them away. Can anybody give me input on Heddman's for my 77? Will they fit? I understand the power steering bracket problem, and will get they new bracket. You referred to a $.25 fix for the C-4. What's the shift-kit secret? I haven't seen that subject come up in past replies. Thanks again! PS Jerry O. I joined the MCCI club last weekend. Perhaps it's not posted yet. Thanks for thinking of me! I'll be around for quite a while!
Headers... ..Hooker 6901's are not that pricey. I think mine were less than $150. They fit easily. Is your C4 column shifted? I think there are problems with headers and column shifted cars? Mine is floor shifted so I am not sure. As far as adding headers and a 4V, I disagree with the previous post of a 50 HP increase. It may add 15-30 max. on your stock 302. Mine stock (no converter) with 2V and duals would ruin a right rear tire. The addition of headers and a factory iron 4V intake and a Holley 600 vac. killed my bottom end torque and the stock cam would not allow it to take advantage of the secondaries. Add the headers, dual plane aluminum intake and a 600 or smaller cfm vacuum actuated secondaries carb and upgrade your ignition as well as go with a decent street performance cam and you will see an improvement. Beyond that, you will be looking at a rebuild for more performance. A shift kit is not a bad idea to firm up the shifts, but don't go crazy with it. They can be set up from firm to 'bark' in just about all gears depending on the condition of it. Lots of guys here speak highly of the factory Duraspark ignition system. I have never had one. Maybe they can be tuned or upgraded. Good Luck. Seth
Welcome to the board and the club. Sounds like you are on the right track on getting some more performance from your car. I have Hooker 6901 headers on my car and they are the best fitting headers I have had in the 28 years of owning my car. I have had nothing but Holleys on my car and have never had one problem with any of them. Yours sounds best suited for a 600 cfm 4 barrel. I had a Crane hydraulic cam in mine for years, think it was one of the blazer line of their cams. Real nice for your setup. Cant remember the specs on it. Any cam manufacturer will help you select the right cam for your setup. I just play with 4 speeds and cant really suggest anything on the shift kit. I havent really stated anything here that any of the other good info posted above, just my experience with what I have done with mine. Good luck with yours and keep us posted.. Dan
Guess I will add a few ideas for you to think about. In my opinion, for a first time build, I would go with the Edelbrock Performer Rpm pkg. This will give you cam, lifters, intake and carb for one price. Just call them and tell them what your deal is and they will give you the straight scoop on what to get. I also use Holley's but for a bolt on out of the box performer, I think the 600 Edelbrock would do you fine until later on if you decide to upgrade. Headers are definately going to help. As far as mavmans extra module, just insurance, Ford's duraspark and module are as good as any and should last a long time. The .25 cent shift kit is an improvement to say the least. Requires dropping the valve body and using a cotter pin or other device(.25 cents at the hardware store) blocking the cutback valve and then removing the spring from the accumilator valve (this valve softens up shifts for wooseys) raising line pressure from around 65psi to 115psi. Have used them in several c4's for both street and mild racing. Be sure and add a trans cooler for insurance and longevity. As previously posted a good rear gear will be a complete differance in performance. While you replacing the cam install a good timing chain , nothing high dollar but for 40.00 you can find a decent one in the catalogs. The other add ons like tach, oil and water gages are also recommended. This should give you a good running engine and maybe leave a few Chevy's in your rear view mirror.
My auto has a column shift, but want to change it to a floor shifter. is this a big deal, or a bolt-on? Will this eliminate the hedder problems too? Will the B&M Megashifter work, or is there a better option? I think I'll take Dave H's advice and go with the Edelbrock RPM package. Cam Lifters, carb, manifold sounds like the best way for the first time. I set up a budget of $2000 for this project, but I have some interior work to do as well. When I pull the engine, and open the trans, I'll ask a where to put the $.25 parts in the valve body. Remember, I'm 54, and I'll forget! Thanks again to everyone for their support!
The duraspark dizzy is a fine unit. Hell a MSD is basically the same thing. I might add a Crane Ignition box. It has an adjustable rev limiter. You can buy a combo pack box and coil for 200.00 from jegs. The original Duraspark box was not that reliableIMHO. If you are keeping the stock heads A small cam is all you need Pick one that promotes torque and Hp under 5500 as stock heads tend to weeze out just a little over that. If I remember correctly to keep emmisions legal Hedman does not list those headers fitting your car because it was equiped with Catalytic Converter. They will fit as along as you put a floor shifter(get a cable shifted B/M or Hurst)and if power steering get the bracket to drop it the needed clearance. I will disagree with OLD guy on the package from edelbrock only with the cam as its numbers are really suited for an after market head or heavy massaged factory castings.
If your going to go with an Edel brock Intake i'd consider puting on the 289 performer. Builds power idle - 5500 rpm. So if your running an older 302 like me (85mustang). They're built more for low end torque and red line at about 4700rpm. I'd recommend a Holley Carb over the Edelbrocks most people find them easier to tune and all the car experts I know use them relgiously. Those hooker headers might be worth it if you want your exhust to flow really smoothly.
Grant Being you are a decade younger than myself, would like to explain a little on my theory of going with the pkg from edelbrock. Have a shed full of parts that I have bought over the years and found out they did not live up to performance expectations. If you are going to someday go to larger cam and heads etc., then you can save some money by building around the slightly larger than needed equipt you install now. The phone call to each mfg. telling them of your intentions and set up will yield more knowledgeable answers than mine. The discussion over Edelbrock versus Holley carbs is endless, but either one is going to work well. For a street application the Holley presents some problems for the novice, they are usually jetted a bit large for stock type engines and messy to say the least when removing the bowls to chg. them, especially on the engine. I think they are a great performance carb and like I said, later on if you upgrade is probably the best to buy but the Edelbrock is much easier to tune and more adaptable to those who just want to bolt on a increase in seat of the pants performance. Next time you go to a car show check and see how many have them on their street machines compared to Holley's. If my gut feeling is correct I bet it won't be long and you will want "More Power" good luck with the project and have fun with it. Remember, the golden years are the best and even if the old body says to slow down, we can still think like kids. Got another picture of a project I thought up one day for parades and use in the pits at the racetrack to prove my point. Will post in another reply later.
You need to keep in mind some key things Grant. Your trans needs to be converted to a floor shift to get any headers to fit in there. You will have to do some work to your steering column too. Anytime you put a cam in a stock windsor ford, you need to replace valve springs and install screw in studs. In essence, count on doing a complete valve job with mods. This will cost you close to $500 without porting. You may save money by finding some older heads already done. The chamber size on those 77 heads is big, and the thermactor bosses in the exhaust side are really restrictive. You would be wasting your money on headers if you kept these heads.
Grant Here is the post I promised, some say young in heart and others say just plain nuts. Either way I have a ball with it, stage a time run with it now and then. Had a .523 light last time out but don't remeber the 1/8th mile et. To quote a favorite Geo Jones song "I don't need your rockin chair" but at my age I sure do need this potty alot.
Thanks old guy! I love the photo, and after having prostate cancer, I can an identify with your needs! I feel like I've been adopted by another family that shares my passion for fixing up old things that go fast. And as with any family, there are a few family members I'm not too certain about; but that's what makes this a great country. On a serious note, is it a big deal to switch from a column shift auto to a floor shifter? Is there a bolt on kit that is better than another? I plan on replacing the floor carpet, so the interior will be stripped soon, and that would be the best time to do it. Grant
Grant its no problem switching using the B&M shifter you wanted to use...I had no problems with it and I'm sure you won't. Just disconnect the auto linkage and follow the instructions. If your buying the shifter second hand B&M has instructions at there website in PDF format for downloading and printing. The hooker 6901's are a great fitting set of Headers and they flow nicely...they will go in fine after disconnecting the column linkage. Good Luck and have Fun
