8" Third Member Removal

I just got my new to me 8" third member and am ready to swap out the old one. I've never done this before but I think I can handle it. Looks like I put the car on stands, drop the drive shaft, remove the wheels, slide the axles out about 5" and remove bolts. I know some have put a jack under the carrier to help pop it loose from the rear end and lightly use a prybar. Is there anything else that I can can do that makes the job easier?

 

I would get some of the cheap plastic spatulas from the dollar store (the kind you use in the kitchen to clean out jars, put icing on a cake, etc). Use these to get out all the old gear oil.

There are also copper gaskets/washers under the nuts. Get those off or you will never get the pig out.

 

Sounds like you are on the right track. Make sure you have a catch pan for the gear oil.

 

You have basic. Things you may need are .... a slide hammer will help pull a stuck axle
When using the pry bar to remove center section you will need go from side to side or top to bottom with pry bar to remove c/s very tight fit on the bolts

 

I would also pull the axles all the way out. When they are resting on the seal you run the risk of them tearing.

 

I would think replacing the seals while you have it out would be good, they are cheap.
If you don't have a slide hammer, use the drums as a slide hammer. Worked great for me.
And the drip pan for the gear oil is a must. That stuff stinks and is hard to clean up.
Have fun

 

It's a million times easier with the assembly out of the car, but it looks like everyone has covered what I was gonna say. Little tip/trick tho.... drill and tap TWO bolt holes on either side of the third members ridge (i dunno the technical term but the mating surface for the gasket) any size you want but id stay close to the size of the bolts there. I did it so if I need to pull it again, I can simply thread some bolt in and crank er down. It'll pop your third member out without all the prybars, etc.. and make you NOT hate your life, PLUS, drill and tap a drain plug in the bottom of your assembly hile you have the chance

 

once it clears the studs...it's heavy and awkward...

 

I have tapped a few studs back into the housing to remove the center section. That way no need to pry the section out. After it's out...reinstall the studs by pulling the studs back in place with the nuts...same as you would wheel studs.

 

my understanding is that you can drain the dope that way also...when removing the chunk...

 

Could not agree more. A lot easier to get all of that old, stinking gear lube out also.