Ok, if you might remember, I found an issue with the PoliceMav and the amp draw when everything is being used. This became more of an issue in a parade we went to in Delaware where everything including the heater needed to be run at very slow speeds. I tried to install an alternator from an LTD, but found some unfortunate fit issues that I ultimately weren't able to overcome, so the alternator ended up becoming Ford Exchange stock. An oversize case alternator just can't be made to fit in an a/c Mav. Since then, I found a couple of outlets for small case hi output alternators that will fit, though being a bit pricey. They are all one wire, internal regulated hookups. One manufacturer is offering an external regulator look alike feature. The great thing is that they have upward of 40 amp output at idle when the max output of the stock one is 60 amps at speed. The max output of the new one is at least 100 amps . The case size of the particular one I'm considering is 5" diameter. What do you guys think of doing a one wire conversion like this? Is there anything I need to be aware of doing this other than installing a larger gauge positive battery cable? I need to have this done before the car goes to DC in May for the Police Week memorial parade which we are going to be in.
Wes, it sounds like you are really best off going that route. Things I would look at are mounting holes, all of them. Is there going to have to be fabrication for new slide adjusters, brackets? I have not done this conversion myself, but have helped out with trouble shooting on local cars who have gone this route. I am planning to do this to my 71 when I get to that point. Seems like John Ford went to a 1 wire on his? Maybe he can lend some advice. Dan
The one I may be going with is from PA Performance. They custom build them and do a lifetime warranty on the model I'm looking at. They state no special fabrication needs to be done to mount and for an extra charge, they include everything needed like upgraded cables, etc. The fake external regulator actually performs a function in the hookup as it includes diodes, etc. and makes for a solid connection to the charging system utilizing the existing plug. I don't know anyone that has used this brand, but the person I spoke to seemed quite knowledgable on the product and what I needed to accomplish. Shipped with the fake regulator hookup, it'll be about $200. I'm still checking around, but this is the front runner at this point.
Wes, if you do indeed go this route, please document the install. Would make a nice Shorthorns tech article. The price sounds reasonable too. Dan
I put my one-wire alternator in about 8 or 9 years ago, before you could just go out and buy a Ford version. I used an 80 amp Delco, same basic case size as the original Ford unit. Paid around $65 for it. Got rid of the voltage regulator and harness, ran an 8 AWG wire to the side of the starter solenoid that the battery + cable connects to. The battery + cable doesn't need to be made larger, although it won't hurt anything if you do. The max current flow through the cable is during starting and that shouldn't have changed. The lower mounting bolt on the Delco unit is metric so I had to use a metric bolt and a large lockwasher. At the top mounting hole I had to drill the alternator case hole just slightly larger and make a longer spacer out of a piece of pipe. I also transferred the original Ford pulley and fan to the new unit. Not sure if I really needed to do that.
I got outbid for a one-wire alt the other day on ebay. It went for around $100. I was in a hurry (and too cheap) to bid more than $85. Would you please elaborate for a sec? Do you remember the application (year, make, model, etc.) of the one-wire alternator that you used?
Bought it from good old JC Whitney. Only description was that it was a "GM 80 amp, single wire alternator". Not to be confused with the GM 3-wire units.
Might be this one then ($89.99 now) Does yours look like the one in the picture? http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/c-10101/s-10101/p-167174/mediaCode-ZX/appId-384609
wes, i went with a late model ford truck ('94) alt. it is a 100 amp one wire. it bolted to the stock holes and used the same bolts. (like it was made for it)...frank...
Rick, that looks like the one I have. I think it was on sale when I bought it. Frank, what was the price on the 100 amp model, if you don't mind?
I think it is a great ideal.....I am still working out the bugs with mine. I think my only problem is the little bitty crank pulley I have is underdriving the alt. so much that its not keeping up with the charging demands. Good advice and I agree with Dan...would make a nice tech article for the Shorthorns!
Thanks for the replies. I will do a documentation of the upgrade when I do it. Right now, I'm waiting for my tax return to get here to purchase the parts, so it'll be later toward April likely when the actual work gets done. I hate to work out in the cold. John, the tech at PA Performance mentioned something about underdrive so I understand what your problem is. This particular unit, and an even larger output one they sell, seems to eliminate this problem by having a significantly higher amount of amperage available at idle by design. They understood the needs of some rodders and others so they made their alternators to have good idle output ratings. You guys that have your Mavs boomed out may want to pay attention to this issue. Stereo equipment is the largest drain items in cars today where modifications have been made to them. They claim that a 60 amp stock alternator may only put out as little as 12 amps at idle. The only way to correct this problem with a stock alternator is go with a larger pulley. That may not always be the perfect solution, though, if you need a fair amount of power at idle with a stock alternator, even a larger output model. I've done searching for other companies and haven't been so successful. The only other one I found is an alternator called "Mr. Amp" that is sold through several retailers on the web. This one does the same thing that PA Performance does. It is more expensive, though, by a significant amount. I believe that the case may be slightly larger, where this case from PA is exactly the same size as our 60 amp models, 5" diameter. If anyone wants to call PA Performance themselves, the number is 1-877-471-8010. These alternators seem to be the ticket for having the power with not having to fabricate anything for the install at all. The tech used the 'Plug & Play' analogy to describe these units. The 5" case model is called the 95 amp model, but will peak at 120 amps. This is the model that pumps out upward of 40 amps at idle and is a guaranteed exact fit. It sells for $169. There is a 130 and a 200 amp model available also. The 130 is only minutely larger, if at all, and peaks at 150 amps. It gives 80 amps at idle. It should be an exact fit also. The 130 amp model goes for $266 + accessories. The fake external regulator installation kit is $26.95. I don't have the price on the 200 amp model, but it should be in the $350 range, maybe slightly less. Oh yeah...the 130 and 200 models do not have a lifetime warranty, if it matters, but a one year. The rationale is that the failures of these models have been largely due to something else in the car causing the alternator to meltdown per their investigations, like these tuners and SUVs having more stereo equipment than an audiophile has in their home. A standard one wire installation, like Barry did, can be done with any of these models. The tech was very insistant that a cable size upgrade should be done especially with the much higher output models. Realistically, would you pump 100 amps of housepower through a standard piece of 14/2 Romex that was made to handle 20 or 30? So why would you jeopardize your car the same way? Barry's install worked without mods because he doesn't have the high drain items in it, I imagine. In my case, I have emergency lights and a siren. Some of you have stereos and performance mods. They need the higher amp output so modify the cables.
I added a chrome 140 amp Powermaster "1 wire" alternator to my 302 last summer. It is actually in a Delco case. I was able to use the same bracket that held the ford one, but I had to slightly drill out the mounting eyelet on the alternator to accept the larger bolt that holds it to motor. I think I used a different spacer as well. One thing to keep in mind: if you use a 1 wire, your idiot light on the dash will no longer work. What I did was make my alternator into a "3 wire" instead, which is what these Delco alternators are anyway(at least this type). There is a plug on the side of the alternator that bridges two spade terminals. I removed this and one side connects to 12v and the other side goes to the idiot light. The main wire is an 8 gauge wire going directly to the + side of the battery. I have been very satisfied with the upgrade...I can have all accessories on at idle and the headlights are as bright as can be.
It's good you brought up about the idiot light. I installed an analog voltmeter in the PoliceMav so I'm not concerned if the light works or not. Some would be, though, so it's good we know about this 'side effect'.
I have a 3g alternator from PA-Performance, 80amps at idle with 160 amps peak. I am running the race/kit car setup, which is a 2-wire internal regulator setup. I am running March brackets and pulleys, which are designed, for the stock Ford alternator. Only had make a small modification to the tension bracket other than that it was a bolt in. The have very nice products and a knowledgeable staff. BTW they are also a March Performance dealer and gave me a good price on my brackets and pulleys.
