http://www.booksamillion.com/product/9781884089282 Digging around on the net and found this. Is this one of the better books? I don't need to do much more than just understand when each circuit is opening up, and how to adjust them all. I am starting to feel that the miss in my car is carb related. It seems to happen only after idle, and at low cruising. when I get to faster cruising or hard accelleration, it goes away. Not sure if I am in the low speed circuit at this time or not (2500-3000 rpms) and don't want to start randomly swapping jets and adjusting screws without some scientific knowledge and diagnostics. So, rather than screw around with this thing anymore, I need good wisdom to guide me into fixing this thing correctly and finally!
The Haynes manual does a pretty good job of explaining the circuits & their functions. At your local parts house.
local books are always a bonus. I have always had good luck with Haynes. I will be installing an oxygen sensor while I do this. They say to get it as close to the engine as possible. Should this be in the header collector or can it be after. Haven't decided on using the multimeter on it or buying a A/F kit that works full time. I am getting tired of doing everything the cheap way and wasting my time and money. I think I need to start doing it the correct way even if it costs me a little more.
I usually do that, but this miss appears to be only in a mid-range area of my rpm range, or power usage. If I gun it, it runs fine, but if I try to cruise in the lower to mid rpms, it misses, and I assume is running lean. I want to know specifically which circuit to adjust, rather than doing the "seat of pants, just start swapping jets" method that has failed me thus far. I have another thread out in my research on A/F gauges, so I am going to finally dial this carb in 100% and no more wasting time and guessing.
what RPM range are you going to dial it in to? when we dynoed my 600 Holley...we got it dead on at WOT...but at 2500-3000 RPM it was to the rich side. we left it there opting for a cooler running street motor...
Sounds like the power valve is not opening enough or isn't big enough, thus leaning it out on the transition from idle to cruise.....
I am going to order an A/F ratio gauge this week and see what is really happening before I start to get gasoline on my clothes.
Scooper that is one of the better books, And i didn't comment on your miss on the other thread, but at cruise if you are running a very lean afr mixture and the 44 thous ants plug gap you will have a miss. Its harder to light off a lean mixture. Mine runs about 15-1 at cruise and i 2 have a slight burble ( not going to call it a miss, don't like the word). I have just learned to live with it since it gets 17 + mpg. I don't know what ignition box or boxes you running but i would back the gap down to 35 and see if it helps. when you put the wide-band on, I think you will find the problem.
Actually, I did drop the gap back to 32 after reading that the 44 was hard on the electrical system. No ignition boxes. Just stock distributor, with a big cap on it, and pertronix inside, and Accel Super Stock coil. Pretty basic setup. I agree with you on the word "miss". I said it had a miss and all of a sudden was getting suggestions for MUCH worse problems than the little "burble" I am getting. It would be nice to find exactly what is causing the burble and fix it. Hence looking at books and an A/F meter.
Try going up a couple steps on the jets and see what it does. I tried the O2 and meter but could never really see what was happening it happened to fast. A Wide band would be better than a meter any day I think. Can you feel the power valve come in? Try hooking up a vacuum gauge inside the cabin so you can watch your vacuum while cruising up a long low hill. You should be able to watch the gauge and feel the power valve just barely when it opens up. That might give you a better idea of whats happening. What power valve do you have in it? Most kits comes with a 6.5. I think I still have a 4.5 in my 460 and if I keep a steady foot while going up a long slow grade I can feel the power valve open almost every time. Might want to also check the vacuum advance. Might need to back it off. Some of the rebuilt distributors will have gobs of vacuum advance added to them. ONe rebuilt one I bought had the vacuum advance turned in all of the way. Gave me all kinds of trouble until I figured it out. That was got me interested in timing advance curves and tuning. clint
As for the advance, I was initially running it with the vacuum off and getting 30 degrees total, so I put the vacuum line on and am now WAY up around 45-55 (off the chart). You are right, this reman distributor has LOTS of built in advance. Didn't seem to affect the "burble" but did give accelleration a kick in the pants. Power valve is new, and 6.5, primary jets are 76, secondary at 74 currently. I am not going to make any adjustments until I get the wide-band A/F sensor installed later this week. Then just going to get out and get on it and see what readings I get. Then maybe experiment with changing a couple of jets one at a time and see how it affects the A/F. Still gotta get to O'Reilly and see if they have the Holley book.
Well, i purchased the Haynes book and it really is a great beginner book for the holley carbs, but I think I am into it a little more than the Haynes book can help me. The book is great for theory, tear-down, repair, rebuild, and general tuning, as well as troubleshooting, but it isn't in-depth enough on the fine-tuning for what I need. I put it for sale in the For Sale section if anyone wants it at my cost, http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=60587 But now I am back in the market for a higher performance book. Blown, is the book in my first post the one you are referring to as being "one of the better books"?
