Building a 302 have some ?'s

I have a bare block that will be sent out to be check and if all is good boared .030 and hopefully start buying some parts to start my build. These are future plans not something that is going to start right away but I was just wondering about a few things.

I would love to put close to 300hp on the ground but at the same time I don't want to brake the bank doing it. Just looking for some ideas as far as products around the mid grade area that I can use and trust for my build. I want it to be reliable because I don't put my car on a trailor I drive it, but I am not building a drag car that is going to be on the strip every weekend getting pushed to its limits.

I don't know that much about performance parts but I am trying to learn just asking for alittle help to point me in the right direction.

 

One thing I would suggest is finding used parts when it comes to durable items.
There are parts everywhere for 302s.
You can save a bunch of dough keeping your eyes and ears open for things like:
Headers
Intake manifolds
Even heads...

If you run across a set of early 351w heads, 69-74, those are one of the best stock heads you can use. Over the last 35 years, many have been ported, studded, and fitted with decent valves. If you run across a set like that, you can have a good set of heads for cheap. If they don't have all the work done to them, you don't save much if you have to pay for all the work. The only way to come out ahead is do the work yourself. To pay someone will cost you enough that you could buy aluminum heads for the money. Keep an eye out for aftermarket heads too. Save a little dough and the aluminum will let you run higher compression without detonation. About a full point higher than cast iron.

On your ignition, you can use the early solid state electronic ignition for cheap.
Some call it 'Duraspark'.
The Ford electronic ignition works off a magnetic trigger and cd box.
Basically what any good aftermarket system works off of.
You can even trigger an MSD straight off the flying magnet distributor used in stock electronic ignition. Makes life easy and gives you aftermarket power for cheap.

Hope these little tips help.
Dave

 

Check out my thread on putting my engine in. I have a full description of the build on my motor and what type of horsepower it is putting out. I built mine to be a weekend toy, good driveability, and really not to race....but I could if I wanted to.


http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=28638&highlight=motor

 

awesome Neal! 331 or 347 in mind?

 

Ratio411 (Dave) makes some very good points.

The engine in my car was built on a LOW budget.
all of the things listed below were purchased off the internet
from message board members or off ebay.

Used X-303 hydrolic roller cam. from ebay. $100.00

Used VERY slightly Edelbrock cylinder heads. $820.00
came with a set of (torqued once) ARP head bolts in the box.

New Scorpion Roller rockers in the box . $165.00

Used Mallory unilite distributor. ebay $100.00

Used tunnel ram from a buddy with 2- 600`s $260.00
sold the 600`s for $125.00 so the intake was $135.00

Bought `88 5.0 block which came with a set of Speed -pro
pistons new in the box with a new set of Ford hyd.roller lifters
and a used wolverine cam $320.00
Sold cam on ebay for $100.00so the rest was $220.00

New ATI 157 tooth 50 oz. sfi flexplate ebay $68.50

Used Chrome Ford racing Valve covers $25.00

I bought everything else in the motor new and added
a balance job and Arp rod and main bolts.

I know I`ve not covered every thing on the car,but you get the picture
with some searching,patience ,and "horse trading" it CAN BE DONE
on a budget.:bananaman

Car has run 12.20 @ 112.35 mph. and I know it has more in it
with some tuning.

 

You forgot to mention expensive.

A budget build-up is what I have, and nowhere near 300 RWHP. 289 heads (rebuilt) with 1.78/1.46 valves, 9.5:1 flat-top pistons (cast, no high-$$$ Keith Blacks), 040 overbore, Perfect Circle moly rings, Clevite bearings, Comp Cams hydraulic flat-tappet cam, Comp Cams springs, windage tray, ARP rod bolts and oil pump rod, Stock crank machined 010/010, stock rods (shotpeened and reconditioned) Melling standard volume oil pump, Dynagear timing chain & gears, FelPro gaskets, new harmonic balancer and flexplate. ...All topped off with a Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 570 Street Avenger carb, cast iron exhaust manifolds, and Duraspark ignition w/Autolite 8.5mm wires. It adds up quick.

I saved my original 302 to build a serious motor later...

 

I am looking at building a 347 eddie, I will most likly go with a set of Aliminum heads (product unknown) I have heard alot of good things about the ARP heads but was looking at a set of Elderbrock heads being I can get them for cost over at the speed shop here in town.

When it comes to the 347 build just wondering about brands for pistons, rods, crank, cam and so on... It might take two years to build the motor that I want I am not going to build this in a few weeks, with having the twins the extra cash isn't always layin around.

As far as buying parts on Ebay all for it I just don't really know enough to know if what I am buying is what I want....

 

We have about $3000 in Tammy's engine and it dynoed at 295 hp and 296 tq at the rear wheels.

 

I think to properly answer this question more info is needed. What are your expectations? What kind of use/ Race/street or both.....What kind of budget ?

Lance

 

What I want to know is How much is in your Motor?

 

How much of what? oooooooh my motor................first off I have been building it for about three years and collecting parts the whole time. That being said I have around to $6000, I don't really want to know. Street boss is not the way to go for good cost effective power, I did it for the challange and look of the engine.

 

Here is my 2cents worth, being in your position when I was younger, a lot of parts are cheap, but you also may not get the longevity or quality with them. First off I would go with a 331 instead of the 347 right now. Save on expense of having the block notched for clearance, as is the case with most 347 builds. Eagle had a sale on their crank, rod's, pistons, bearings, etc. and was balanced for less than 1000.00 Then I would go with RPM air gap intake and a Vacuum secondary 750 Holley. A good flat tappet cam of around .514 lift, give or take some. Roller rockers and good push rods. Gasket set and Mellings oil pump(std flow). Forget the other stuff like windage trays and invest in a main girdle for now. Ford's dizzy and box will work fine, might get a good coil though.

Another thing is to remove all the plugs in the block and have it hot tanked, then tap the holes for pipe plugs instead of drive in type with exception of the block freeze plugs and the one on the top of the lifter galley. Is always a god idea, and most machine shops want too anyway, bore the block to the particular pistons you are using. Makes for better fit etc. Preparation is just as important as assembly. I always paint the lifter valley with red glyptal paint, chamfer the drain holes for faster oil return etc. Tap "all" threaded holes in the block and keep the area clean as you can. You will end up with a nice running and reliable engine in the long run. Lastly, change the rear end gear for real seat of the pants power. Almost forgot, have the C4 built with a decent shift kit installed and even a slightly higer stall (2800-3000) converter. Cost is going to be in the 3000- 4000 dollar range if you use good parts. Spread out over a couple years is around 150 a month if you want to look at it that way. Could be cheaper if you hunt real bargins though. Good luck with it.

 

Neal-
Mine is supposed to be 275-300 at the flywheel. I wish I had done 2 things differently: aluminum heads and roller cam.

I went the '70 351W iron head route. By the time I had the 1.94/1.6 valves, screw-in studs, milling etc. added, I had about $600 in them. For $400-$500 more I could have gone with aluminum-giving me about 25-40 more HP.
I probably could have picked up some more HP switching to a roller conversion camshaft kit. I went flat tappet hydraulic.

I have about $2,200 in my original 302 block-bored .030 over, stock crank turned, ARP rod bolts, KB hypereutectic flat top pistons, all machine work, parts, balancing, head work, camshaft etc.-everything minus the headers and intake/carb-cost me $2,200. Another $1,000 and I would probably be putting 300 on the ground.


Good luck-

Seth

 

i spent about $2000 on my engine

i got the rebuild kit from summit racing, came with everything excvept cam... cam was bought at the shop that did the machine work. they charged me $800 for all machine work on crank, rods, block , a new cam with lifters and a 4 angle valve job on the heads with new valves, etc. (this was in arizona, so a little more expensive than most places)

the rebuild kit was about $500 i think... then i got a brand new carb, headers, radiator, 2500 stall torque convertor, head bolts, and little things here and there.

my engine is no where near 300 hp, but the car runs 14.220 at 96mph in the quarter, the interior is gutted out, no carpet, no panels, no rear seat.. etc..

all i need for me to hit 12's..(another $2000 give or take).. a little bit bigger cam, rear tires to fit my new rims, heads, and gears ...i am sure that when i get these items, i will be at high to mid 12's with consistancy.. which is what i really want. i dont care about how fast it is.. i just want it to be consistant.

 

ARP makes heads??

Why? Windage trays are cheap.

You got off cheap.

My next motor will have aftermarket heads (probably iron) and roller cam. As for stroke, that's yet to be determined...