so some time soon i am hoping to put the cam kit and my heads into my car. i was talking to a buddy of mine and he said that i needed to break in my cam when i did it. he said i should run the motor at over 2000 rpm's for 20 to 30 minutes right after i get it running. i was also told by some one i can't remember who but just to not take the car above 50 mph for the first 500 miles and that would break in the cam. so what is the best way to break in a cam. is it something that i need to do? i know that my dad (who is a auto mechanic) has never broke in a cam when he put a new on in one of his autos. so i need some advice any would be welcome.
Most importantly...put in some Comp or similar cam lube in the oil. The newer oils have removed Zinc, I think because it messes up the catalytic converter, but zinc is VERY important to lube flat tappet cams and lifters. And use lots of assembly lube, you cannot use too much. Buy a big tube from the auto parts store and gunk it on really good. And yes, get it to start immediately, don't let it turn too much at a low rpm or it will wipe off the assembly lube and start to wear your lobes and lifters. Before it gets started, set your idle really high, at least 2000 or 2500. I basically just let it idle at 2000 for 10 minutes, then upped the idle to 2500 for 10 minutes, then, back down to 2000 for 10 minutes, then cut the motor and changed the oil. My mistake, I stopped using the COMP Lube. Wiped that cam out in about 3 years and 3000 miles. so buy enough of the lube to add to each oil change.
myself...i have never...ran in a cam...crank it up and drive it... motors...roller or nonrollers...were not...run in...at the factory.. Scooper and i think Mavaholic have wiped cams that were ...run in.. i wiped one in a ...crate motor...12,000 miles "My mistake, I stopped using the COMP Lube. Wiped that cam out in about 3 years and 3000 miles. so buy enough of the lube to add to each oil change." 3 years later and you are blaming it on...the break in lube... ...sooooooooo what was the point of...running it in at 2000-2500 how many...oil changes...did you do in that 3000 miles? ......
Most cam makers have a breakin procedure that you must follow if you want them to stand behind the parts. It usually involves running the cam imediately to 2000 to 2500 rpm so it get the splash and drip down oil that lubes it. Once it is worn in it will last as long as you keep the maintenance up. The more zinc in the oil the better. Zinc is an additive that was used as a high pressure lubricant until the EPA made then take it out of oil. There are still some break in lubes that have the high levels of zinc that make breakin easier. when in doubt contact your cam maker - they will tell you what to do and how to do it to make the cam last a lifetime.
Cam lobe failures aren't just the result of the lack of zinc in the oils. Part of it was the "Parkerizing" on the lobes (not adequate), part was inferior lifters. In these cases, too much lube is as bad as not enough, if the cam lobe doesn't get enough traction on the lifter bottom, it will fail to spin it, thus gauranteeing failure. I wiped two cams recently, neither was the result of the lack of zinc. Both cams wiped a single lobe each, if it was the "missing zinc", there would have been more than one lobe each. The first failure was due to either too much cam lube ( I slathered the cam and lifters with moly lube, which I used to do 20 yrs ago) and the failed lifter didn't get spun by the cam lobe on initial fireup. That lifter lasted all of 20 minutes. In the case of the second cam, I fired it off in sub 30* temps, oil was too cold & thick, and once again the lifter failed to spin and lasted less than an hour. After these two, I learned about the inferior lifters, that could have been the cause in these two cases, but I'll never know for sure. If and when I ever do another, I'll make sure to inspect the lifter bottoms before installing them. I also do not slather the lobes or lifters with lube, only a thin film is neccessary on the lobes, the lifters get a film on the bottoms, oil only on the sides. I also verify that the lifters will spin freely in their bores when inerting them.
Competition Cams has done a lot of research on the effect different oils have on its products, and one solution the company found may surprise you. According to Comp, "Because of the more severe loads in diesel applications, many of the better diesel-use motor oils have high-pressure friction inhibitors as good or better than any of the previous automotive oils. The current API ratings to look for are CI-4 Plus, CI-4, and CF-4. Oils that meet these standards should be recommended at least through the flat-tappet break-in period along with Comp Cams' Pro Cam Lube applied to the cam and lifter and Comp Cams' Camshaft Break-In Lube oil additive." Some of the diesel oils that meet these standards are: Castrol Tection Extra SAE 15W-40, Chevron Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40, Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40, and Shell Rotella T Multigrade SAE 15W-40. Diesel-formulated oils (in addition to Comp's break-in lube additive) are good for breaking in cams and will even work for regular use if necessary, but they may not be the best option. "In a diesel engine, extra soot can get into the oil," Ferner explains. "In diesel oil, you typically will have more detergent to keep the oil clean and also a dispersant to keep the debris or soot in the oil from settling together in the low spots in the engine and forming bigger pieces. It keeps the debris circulating through the engine where, hopefully, it can by picked up in the oil filter. These additives aren't harmful to a race engine, but it can make the oil thicker than necessary in some areas. And if you are trying to find every bit of available horsepower, you want your oil to be as thin as possible and still protect your engine." For long-term protection of your flat-tappet camshaft and the rest of your race engine, you might consider Quaker State's new Q Racing line of synthetic oils. Developed through Quaker State's consultation with top Nextel Cup teams (which also run flat-tappet cams), Q Racing oil has the advantage in that it isn't meant for over-the-road cars. Instead, it is designed specifically for the needs of race engines. "Instead of just putting zinc back in," says Ferner, "we tried to come up with the best combination of all the individual additives. Besides being able to include all the zinc we thought was necessary, the oil provides maximum protection at minimum viscosity to help with power and includes special antifoaming agents because these engines see rpm levels that can be considered extreme." Currently, Q Racing oils aren't carried in most stores because they aren't intended for road cars. You can find out where to purchase the products through Quaker State's distributor network by calling (800) 237-8645 or visiting www.qpower.com. Assembly Precautions The first steps of the camshaft break-in process actually begin before the cam is assembled into the block. The best way to protect the cam and lifters during the critical first few minutes of operation is to make sure they are properly lubricated. The cam and lifters must be properly lubricated with a good lubricant that is slick and sticky enough to not wipe off after the first pass and will protect the cam during the first few revolutions until the oil pump can pressurize the system and take over. This is necessary even if you spin the oil pump to pressurize the oiling system before cranking the engine. What you choose to lubricate the cam and lifters is important. Motor oil is better than nothing, but it is really too thin and is likely to drip off the cam and into the oil pan before you have even completed the engine build. Most camshaft manufacturers recommend moly-based lubricants or have their own blends. Assembly lubricants have a much greater viscosity and are designed to stick to the cam and not wipe off easily. You may also want to spray on a coat of dry silicone lubricant as a basecoat before applying the assembly lubricant. It simply provides another level of protection. Better Components Flat-tappet lifter design is old technology, but that doesn't mean manufacturers haven't updated the components along the way. In the case of camshafts, most racers these days use cams that have been nitrided. The nitriding process hardens the outside surface of the camshaft and makes the lobes slicker to improve efficiency and durability. The process adds a little money to the cost of the cam, but few experienced engine builders would tell you it isn't worth it. You can also find performance-oriented flat-tappet lifters that can provide a little extra security. When running a flat-tappet valvetrain in a modern race engine, the only friction surface that doesn't receive direct oiling is the contact area between the bottom end of the lifter and the cam lobe. That, however, has changed with the advent of lifters with EDM oiling holes cut into the lifter's face. This hole provides a steady stream of pressurized oil at the point of contact between the camshaft and lifter, so less oil volume is required to provide the proper amount of protection between the two surfaces. The result is less waste with better protection. A final option is to groove the lifter bores. This can be done with a lifter bore grooving tool, which is relatively simple to use. The tool cuts a vertical groove into the lifter bore. Some of the oil exiting the lifter oil gallery enters this groove and is directed to the face of the cam lobe. This method works but isn't as efficient as using lifters with oiling holes. Be aware, however, that if you use either method (both in one engine aren't necessary), you may need to reduce the amount of oil restriction in the galleries. Break-In Once you have your engine built-or when you pick up your new engine from your engine builder-you must take a few special precautions the first time you crank the engine. Properly breaking in an engine requires running it without a load (if the engine is in a car, the car should be in neutral) for 45 minutes to one hour. During this time, the engine should run around 2,000 rpm, occasionally varying the rpm between 1,500 and 2,500. However, the engine shouldn't be allowed to idle because the oil pump isn't spinning fast enough to provide enough oil pressure at those low rpm levels. Before cranking the engine for the first time, it may also be necessary to make a few modifications. Since the engine will be operating during the break-in procedure at low rpm levels and won't be under load, it isn't necessary to have the full valvespring pressure. Consider swapping your valvesprings for a set of break-in springs, which have reduced pressure and won't be as hard on the cam. Often, if you are running a pair of nested springs, you can run the outer spring by itself. Just make sure it has between 100 and 120 pounds of pressure on the seat (but never less than 80) and around 280 pounds over the nose (but never more than 300). Running your regular high-pressure valvesprings during break-in is an easy way to "wipe" the lobes. "Wiping" is an engine builder's term for when the cam is destroyed as a result of scrubbing off the crown on the lobes that help the lifters spin and provide proper oiling. The pressure between the cam and the face of the lifter simply grinds off the nose of the cam lobe. Finally, don't forget to spin the oil pump to bring the oiling system up to pressure. You can do this with a drill, spinning a special tool designed to engage the oil pump driveshaft. Often, racers make the mistake of only spinning the oil pump until they see movement at the oil pressure gauge. This is a mistake because the gauge fitting usually attaches somewhere along the main oil gallery. You may have pressure there but not anywhere along the valvetrain from the lifters to the rocker arms. A better idea is to pull the valve covers and spin the oil pump until you see oil coming out of every rocker arm. If you can't do that, then continue spinning the oil pump for five minutes after you first see movement at the oil pressure gauge. When you finally crank the engine, make sure that you are absolutely ready. Overusing the starter and repeatedly spinning the engine without it firing is very damaging to a new engine because the starter doesn't provide enough revolutions per minute for the oil pump to work effectively. So take a minute to make sure the distributor is properly installed, all the plug wires are on tight, and the carburetor linkage is set up properly. Once the engine fires, proceed directly into your break-in program while keeping a close eye on your oil pressure gauge. It may be 45 minutes of pure boredom, but the results should mean a season of trouble-free performance from your valuable race engine...... That being said...you could just go with a Hyd. Roller.
I've always broke mine in similar to what Paul said. Never wiped a cam or had a cam failure of any kind. As for driving one 500 miles under 50 mph...well, I have heard similar stories in the past. Tell that to all the race car drivers.
cam Follow exactly the cam manufacture's recommendations. And use their break in lube!! In fact order 2 qrts and use the second one for the first oil change after the break in. The change is too big a PIA to have to do it twice within a month. Duel springs won't really hurt unless you are running a hell of a lot of open pressure. Hydro roller is surely the easier, safer route, but I would still use the break in lube. Make sure the timing is set properly to fire and stay running first time , and of course prime the oil pump first. Lots of good info in the prior posts .
I echo above. Although, I have never removed the inner springs and have never had an issue with a new cam.
