Just ta send some info out there on the CNC clutch pedal assembly I installed in my car. It works fantastic. I purchased the reverse swing with 12" pedal and 7/8 master remote reservoir and the VW pull type slave that came with it. The whole assembley fit under my dash fine I had to move my ebrake out of the way and bolt it up to the dash bolts on the far left, then tighten it up so that i could set it with the door closed cause there isn't much clearence there. I drilled two holes in the firewall for Reservoir line and Slave line, the holes are about two inches from my fuse box. The pull type slave that came with it for an extra 30 bucks or so I originally had going through the tab on the bell housing of the T-5 and pulling the fork towards it but it didn't clear the Headers so I switched it around and have it squeezing the fork to that tab, there's enough play in my hard line to allow the inch or so of movement with out bending anything. The braket in side I took Bryant's idea and made a bracket that connects to what i believe to be the steering column bolts on the side of it's bracket. There are three things I need to fix and anybody looking for this good Hydraulic clutch set up should watch for. 1. use good metal for the bracket, I'm currently using some 16gage sheetmetal and a some various L and straighet brackets, which will last me until I can fab somethin stronger. 2. I had to tighten the slave down so that the fork and throw out bearings are right against the clutch. as tight as i could get without it actually disengaging the clutch. The bearing rubs but I think I can loosen it and still get the clutch to disengage. Also a bigger master cylinder I think would make it stiffer but also get more movement out of the slave. 3. Don't use a hard line for the a slave that moves. Try and find some way to get it through a hard line down there but have something flexible to better accomidate the movement. Or just spend what ever extra and do the push type. Including the Remote reservoir pressurized bleeder cap lines and brakets I put about 350 into it, and it's nice. The cable that it originally came with was really rough and tough this is smooth and easy. It took me maybe two hours once I had everything, and if someone(like me or hopefully bryant, if he's still got his mock ups around or dimensions somewhere available) could get some info on here for the pedal bracket it'd be the easiest conversion I've done on this car. I highly recomend it, just have to be good at welding and fabricating, and comfortable with drilling some holes.
Yep I got a CNC similiar setup as well,only difference I went with was I have the resorvoir mounted on top of the assembly under the dash. I just trying to keep as much out of engine bay as possible. I also went off of Bryants same mounting areas and supports, I did it with no welding at all, the welder was sitting there I just did not see a need for it. Was easier to me to just bend up what I needed. My main recomendation for doing this would be to bench bleed the daylights out of the system, or a pressurized bleeder if at all possible. My system is just as tight as yours on the throw out bearing, and I am coming to the conclusion on mine that I am not quit getting the throw out of the slave as advertised. Have not had any more time for adjusting but think it just needs some more tweaking and all should be good.
Im thinking about using that 7/8" master setup and the RAM T5 hydraulic throw out bearing. Maybe I can get more throw with the throw out bearing since it dosnt have to move as far. Should make for a more forgiving clutch pedal i think.
man those ram throw out bearings are expensive. if cost is no problem then definitly go with it. i suspect the issue with having the slave kard against the clutch is more with the pedal not geting enough travel. if anybody is making brackets based off of my thread on my install i would sugest moving the pedal assembly as far back in the car as you can.
the RAM kit is $199 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-78130/ When just the T5 Slave clyinder mount bracket if $105 plus the slave for $50? or so. Its not too much more. It may be in the budget and worth doing if I can get a better result. So far i'm hearing the slave idea isnt too great and th eless travel i have to push in the pedal the better it feels to me.
I did a similar set up in a '37 Ford pickup a few years ago and while it worked fine {i didn't have the truck that long} i've heard guys say the seal blows out of them sometimes which means pulling the tranny....I love my CNC set up with the Willwood master and Speedway pusher slave and the master is only around 50 bux
That is a great piece though if you want to spend the money on it, I just like external incase of problems down the road at all. That bracket can be made for about 5.00 dollars, I made mine out of angle iron and a cut off wheel on a grinder. Also agree with Bryant, pedal moved back and up as far as possible helps out alot. also a BFH to the floor board if you need more. I have no doubts mine just needs some tweaking, have not put the time into it yet.
man that ram price has dropped sence the last time i looked at it. it also has the benifit of a steel input bearing retainer for the t5 as part of its kit. thats also a good up grade for strength for the trans. ill consider doing this when i put a new maverick togther after i get done dealing with insurance.
And Ryan the CNC clutch in my maverick feels 100x better than my sn95. I also shot for less clutch pedal travel with minimal resistance. Before you buy, come over and check mine out again in the daylight so you can see it a little better.
Here are a couple replies i got from RAM about the hydraulic bearing. " Ryan, The 78130 only works on T-5's that came out of v-8 cars, the bearing retainer hole on the v-6 and 4cyl model is to large for our replacement bearing retainer, so that would be the first thing to check. Use a min. of a 3/4" bore master cylinder, you can use a larger bore but may have to use a pedal stop to avoid overtravel. When using a Centerforce clutch with our hyd. bearings the counterweights on their pressure plates tend to interfere with the bearing which could cause damage to the bearing and failure of the unit. Doug RAM Clutches" " A 3/4 master with out bearing yields around a .660 total travel of the bearing, how that would effect your situation I have no idea. We have had a bunch of customers use the Wilwood masters with great results. Doug RAM Clutches"
i wonder how they can say a 3/4 bore results in so much travel. the travel of the push rod has a huge effect on it also. on top of that the leverage that the clutch pedal gives you really has an effect on pedal effort. if you have lots of leverage then you dont need as small of a master cylinder.
No matter how much leverage you have on the pedal the master still puts out the same volume to the slave, just easier with more leverage. And I think the TOB requires less volume for more travel, and since it isnt pushing on the end of the clutch fork it has less distance to travel to release the clutch.
I looked into that style of throwout bearing for my transmission but after I found out it wouldnt work with my centerforce then that ruled it out. Oh and if you guys get the ram setup make sure you spot for the remote bleeder kit I have one of those setup on my CJ and after putting on the remote kit it made it 100 times easier to bleed it then it was before. And as Ryan said those slave cylinders only need a specific ammount of fluid to actuate properly. Most of them are designed to run with a 3/4 master cylinder, if you use a larger bore you will exceed the volume limits of the slave cylinder at full stroke. I should have my setup done this weekend I will try and post pics.
