...An article in one of the Mustang/ Ford Magazines where they plopped an EFI sytem from a K car onto a Maverick wiht an I -6? They then proceeded to add NOS in varying amounts until it killed the 6. How serious of a conversion was that, by that I mean is that a viable way to get EFI on a 250? I am not that concerned with a huge boost in power but certainly wouldn't want to decrease power, has anyone here tried it? I am sick of having to pump the heck out of the gas to get my car to start, expescailly if it has sat a long time, In winter I literally have to pump the gas 30 40 times Crank it... dies.. pump it another 20 times tries to start, dis then one more time 20 times then it will start. Also when warm weather comes I have to adjust the choke so it will not die on me at stop lights. then when cold weather hits again I have to adjust the choke back again so it will start idle ok once it is warmed up. the shop that put it on for me had it adjusted, but it woudln't idle. It gets better as it warms up but it is really aggrevating.. are these cars That cold blooded I just don't remember my 75 Mav fromm High school having to be pumped so many times, any ideas guys? I have had a new carb put on it, and had it timed, it has a new distrbutor and points, would a switch to a pertronix set up help wiht this problem? One other wrench in this is related to the valves, Ii was told I have a stuck valve. is that the culprit here?
It was Hot Rod, from a few months ago. Have you done a compression test? how do you know you have a stuck valve?
Well that is just what a mechanic told me, here's the situation had to have the Oil Pan pulled about 1 1/2 years ago, Refilled with oil after bolting it back on, started it up went inside for just a couple of minutes Went back out and the motor was running very rough, I shut it down immediately and check the oil turns out their must have been a spot where the gasket didn't seal and leaked the oil out. Anyway I filled it back up and got the leak fixed but now the There is a rattling noise ( sounds like detonation) when I drive it, it is not always just at varying speeds. to let you know I had this car into a shop to have a tune up, New Carb , distributor and points etc. Got it home and pulled into the drive way and it didn't want to idle very well, Called the shop who worked on it, and they said to back the choke of a bit, worked fine still have the " rattling noise" To let you know I have ditched that shop since they quoted me $900 just to replace gaskets and seals on my c-4 , got someone else to do it for around $400 I just got back to work after speaking wirh a different mechanic He wants to listen to it and try to detemine where the noise is coming from, it does have a bit of a tick but it also has this rattling, noise. Anyway I am taking it in tomorrow to see if the guy has any ideas , initally he thought it might have " spun" a bearing.
I've never really messed with a 6 cylinder, but if you have a stuck valve and have been driving it, something would have beat to hell by now and I think you'd have more problems.
Hmm, well as you can tell I have very limited knowledge on this stuff I have an idea on how stuff works ,and can do some repairs but I'm having someone who knows what they are doing look at it, I have several things oign on here I know, but aprt of what I was wondering was if that conversion they did would actually work and how much it would cost, I mena woudl the cost worth it.
Sounds to me like a main or rod bearing, if it is rattling. Take a compression test, see if the head is ok. Then, pull the pan again, and check the bearings and crank.
Earl that is similar to what the guy i spoke with today said "spun bearing" , though he didn't mention a compression test, what will the compression test " tell" me?
Is a rebuild in order for replacing a Rod or Main bearing ? Do people replace those things without a complete re-build? The Car has only 70k on it. What kind of cost would you expect if you had it done by a mechanic?
If it is a bearing, yes, it might require rebuilding the bottom end of then engine. Be sure to have the crank shaft checked and see if it needs attention also. A compression check will check the valves and pistons and rings to see if they are sealing correctly. If you have low or no compression in one or more cylinders, it could be broken or worn rings, a stuck valve or a broken piston, all of which will make your car run badly. I would get the compression check first, then proceed to the bottom end. Costs vary on these things, and you have get estimated on labor, parts and machining. I just had a 5.0 done, and I had about $2500 in it when all was said and done. That did include the installation and removal of the old engine, and rebuilding of the new engine. BTW, you can replace the bearings without rebuilding the entire engine, if the head and pistons are ok. Good luck!
Thanks for the info but a question are there different " levels " of rebuilding an engine? I have heard people referring to rebuilding the bottom end and the top end what does each entail, Does the Bottom end include rings and pistons? is the top end the valve train or is that a separate deal? What does a "valve job" usually include. The car actualy runs pretty good except for that dang rattle, it has good power, Idles smooth ( when I adjust the automatic choke for cold or warm whether)
Does the carb that they put on it "look" new?? Was it actually new or was it remanufactured?? big difference.... Also if the carb isn't bolted down tight and all the seals good that can cause all that pumping you are having to do as well as maybe a fuel pump (which are pretty inexpensive) What is happening that is causing you to have to pump the hell out of the accelerator to get it to start is one or two things. #1 could be as simple as the choke not closing when it should. #2 somewhere in the the fuel system is a leak doesn't have to be leaking fuel but when the car is sitting it sucks air back through a seal or where a fuel line is hooked up or somewhere and this drains the gas out of the carb and the fuel lines and back into the tank, then when you go to start it that mechanical fuel pump has to pump gas all the way from the tank to fill all that fuel line and the carb bowl before it has enough gas to start the car. My 1972 is doing the same thing rght now and I am 99% sure it is because the carb is not tight, it is missing a couple screws and the bolts that hold the carb to the riser and the riser to the manafold keep working loose allowing air int he sytem, as well as my choke doesn't work properly. If I get out and manually close the choke I only have to pump the gas pedal maybe 10 times total befor ehse is running right. If I try to start it without manually closing the choke even on a mild weather day I could pump the pedal and crank the starter all day and might not ever start. one other solution to this problem is an electric Fuel pump. I am personally going to put a new carb on and if that doesn't take care of the problem then I will replace the fuel lines and the fuel pump. Now the other issues.... If you have a ticking when you get her started that is louder when it first starts then quiets or goes away all together that it the lifters tapping because all your oil is in the pan when you start the car. The rattling that you are talkign about may in fact be detonation, if you had the car tuned up and timing set to factory specs, these cars were supposed to run on 94 and above octane and they only make 93 in most places. If on the other hand it isn't a rattling and is more of a "rapping " sound then it is probably a spun bearing and you may have a wrist pin knocking and are about to throw a rod like I did in my first 250 I6 Maverick. I knew the "rod" was knocking and I drove it until she blew and dropped another $100 engine in it and rolled on the next day. It was cheaper to drop a used engine in it then it was to rebuild the old one...
It "sounds" exactly like detonation. The mechanic I talked to today mentioned that detonation would only be on acceleration, I am going to take it for a drive tonight and really pay attention to when it does it. Carb looks brand new I am pumping the gas Before turning it over. So the fuel pump ( which is brand new)isn't pumping. sounds like I am pumping the heck out of it and there is no gas in the line to squirt in there so really the fuel pump is having to get the gas back up there to the carb, I need to be pumping the accelerator While I crank it. I would like to go with an electric fuel pump anyway. What kind would I buy? Dang fuel injection cars got me so spoiled. No " pumping intant fuel line pressure
Well I dropped it off today at the mechanic and haven't heard back yet, but i am convinced it is detonation, I really paid attention to it more when I drove it , it only " "rattles" on acceleration, it is quieton deceleration, except a mild ticking from the valves Also I took the approach of Cranking it while I pumped it a couple of times , we'll see how it comes out but i am lhaving him check the choke setting , and timing I'm gonna kick my own Butt if this has just been a timing thing the whole time, then I kick the butt of the last guy who worked on it. , i hope i haven't done damage if it is detonation Get this the new guy has his shop opend 7-9pm 7 days a week! ? go figure a shop opened when you need it.
I got a call from the mechanic he thinks a rod bearing is the culprit he's estimating $1200 to replace, Does that sound reasonable, I jsut don't have the tiem or tools to do this, he is getting me a quote for replacing the motor if I find a good replace ment. I'm getting an estimate for replacing the points with a breakerless system. he is telling me that the choke that is on the carb is the worng kind and is " opening when it should be closing??? That part really confuses me is it possible when I had the carb replaced a couple years ago that the carb could have come without a choke? And he put the worng kind on that Carb?? there is a conversaion to a 2 barrel does someone have part numbers for the carb and for the adapter and sourse for both I'd like to see about pricing that upgrade with this guy too.
