I have a problem w/ my car wanting to stall when putting the car (C4) in gear. The car has a leak frm the trans, seemingly around the shifter shaft and somewhere abv the header on the drivers side. It has leaked since I got it; I have just added a little fluid in it ocassionally. The trans shifts fine. My plan is to have it rebuilt/replaced w/ new converter nx spring. When I put the car in gear it will stall unless I take it out of gear or increase the idle spd by increasing rpm while holding on the brakes. The car has new dizzy cap, rotor, wires, plugs and carb. Any ideas what might be the cause of my problem? I won't be doing anything to the car till spring - but this is bugging me.
I have checked at the firewall junction where the hose connect to the carb/intake and heat control valve. I have not put a vac gauge on it yet. My normal reading B4 this problem was at 14hg on engine vac. I have not been under the car. I believe there is a line going to the trans? If we get some warmer temps I plan to look into it a bit more. WhenI get chance to investigate again, I will repost.. Thanks for the advice - need all the help I can get.
I ran across this discussion on vacuum readings. It may help you! http://forums.mustangworks.com/f8/vacuum-reading-idle-23620/
what is your timing set at? if its not close to right it can cause this. the idle mixture for the carb can be wrong. i assume that the car idled in gear before you replaced the distributor and carb. both of these can cause the problem if they are not set properly. you need to set the timing somewhere between 8 to 14 degrees btdc to start with. you need to adjust the idle mixture screws to achieve the highest manifold vacuum level possible. a stock cam should result in a a manifold vac. around 20". if yo have an aftermarket cam then the vac level is dependent on how aggressive the cam is. you will want to have the idle rpm around 850. as you adjust the idle mixture and the timing it will effect the idle speed and you will need to readjust the idle rpm back to 850.
Everett; for the leak, you will have to remove the pan and valve body and the manual shift lever shaft and replace the o-ring. Be real carefull of the downshift lever, as they break real easy. While the shaft is out, have someone weld the lever onto the shaft, so it won't break in the future. Sounds like a bad modulator valve or line to the modulator bad, creating a vacuum leak. Take care, Earl
1).Im not sure of the timing; it was running like a sewing machine B4 this issue. I did'nt bother the timing cuz the car ran so nice. I did not replace the dizzy - just cap and rotor. I have never had the dizzy out - had no reason to pull it. 2). It has a mild cam, it will idle to 850 w/ no problem. I don't have any specifics on the engine. It supposedly had abt 12K miles on a rebuild when I got the car. I got the car 3+yrs ago and after abt 7K miles it has ran great. I thought it was the carb, so I recently got a new one - did'nt solve the problem. I believe the following post by Earl might be the "modulator/line/hose problem. I will look into that next when the spring rolls around.
Ok on the o-ring and shift lever. Im putting it on my to-do list. I thought it might be a vac leak, but that was after I bought a new Holley 600. The one on the car looked like it was installed new when I got the car. I may try and sell one once I figure out my present issue. I believe ur suggestion on the modulator is the best place to start. Im hoping to get all my issues resolved cuz I intend to make the Gathering in Iowa nx year... I appreciate all the feedback on the possible solution for my problem....I admit ... I know vry little abt transmissions cept to put them in gear and go. Thanks guys for all the help
then I would go with the vac leak suggestion...check or recheck all vac lines and any vac caps that are on the carb. I had one of them crack and leak once...
I have the same leak. From my research the outside o-ring is more times than the not the cause. You can replace the outside o-ring without dropping the pan. Just picked up mine from advanced auto a couple days ago and plan to do this fix. I'll post back in a few with the part number and a copy paste of the instructions PaulS gave me
Ok. The number on the "National Wheel End Components" box is 240816. There is another number on the reciept (18442794), but the 240816 number is also on the reciept. Guessing that's the part number. I'll do the fix here shortly. Just waiting to see if I can go to buckets b4 installing a floor shifter. I'll post back to you about how it goes
that works if it's the O-ring and not the seal... as suggested...hold the shift linkage and don't let it turn and bottom out on the case when you...loosen/tighten the nut...
A wise man once gave me some input in case it was the seal and I were to try and replace it myself.. If it's not the outside o-ring.. might be a job for a pro
