I am the guy that wrote the thread "rookie pulling a 302". Thanks for your advice. I have a question though. I am getting a engine stand from Harbor Freight with a 1000 lb capacity. That should be enough for a 302 I think? Here is the question, the directions say to use bolts through a plate on the stand that go into the engine block so it attaches to the stand. Are these holes in the engine block on the underside of the engine? I got to believe that is the only place it can be. Again thanks and down the road I hope to reciprocate.
A 1000 lb engine stand will be more than adequate. The 302 fully dressed is less than 400 lbs. I'm not sure what you are asking about with regard to the holes. Do you have a part number or link for the stand you are reading about?
Loosen the bolts and nuts that hold the four arms to the plate. Position the plate assy. on the rear of the block where the trans bolts. Two top holes and two side holes, then insert 7/16th's bolts through the arm's and center the swivel stub somewhere near the middle of the block. Tighten them and the bolts and nuts that you previously loosened on the plate/arm's. Lift engine and put the stand onto the stub. Use grade 5 or better, rated 7/16th's bolts, that are at least 1in long, through the arms into the block. Head bolts are usually to long or to short to use, sometimes hard to find the right length at hardware store. If the engine is complete and ready for tear down, be careful when rotating it. The top heavy weight with heads on, will cause it to spin rapidly towards the bottom when going over center. Also, it is a good idea to place a drip pan or rags under the engine, to catch any fluids that run out when rotating. Good luck and be careful as always.
Dave gives good advice. The only thing I'd do differently, is to use grade 8 bolts only. My personal experience with grade 5 is that they will easily bend. I'm sure the grade 5's will work as long as they are tight - apparently mine got loose somehow and bent the bolts. Also as Dave stated (and this goes to any novice like myself reading this thread), BE VERY CAREFUL ROTATING THE ENGINE!! If possible, have a buddy help you at least the first time you rotate it. Once the mass gets to rotating, it's very difficult to stop it.
If you think you may be doing this more then once, I like the better stand HF has, thinking it's at $85. More stable, easier to move an works better if you work on the engine while in the stand.
while you have the engine swinging from the hoist, bolt the plate to the bell housing bolts, and lift the stand onto it, the stand is easier to wrestle than the block is. good luck!
i bought the same stand...scrap metal...when you rotate the motor the holes for the pin no longer line up. you have to move the motor in/out to get it to line up. this is not easy with 300 lbs. plus on wheels. you can have the one i got if you want it...free. my reighbor has one that you can rotate with one hand and stop and lock it at any degree. $225 JMO...frank
As mentioned about the pin not lining up... never had that problem but a quick tip... ALWAYS use the pin in it. When you put the stub w/ the plate on it into the actual stand, make sure you put a pin in the hole so that it doesnt accidentally slide out and onto the floor. I have seen this happen once when someone was trying ot get a harmonic balancer off w/o the correct tools and it slid right out and onto the floor almost hitting the guy. I don't know how many different settings that particular stand has, but on the one we have it only had 2 holes so that you can lock it right side up or upside down. I drilled 2 holes in it so I can lock it upside down, rightside up, or with either head facing up. Good enough for me
Buy the biggest stand you can afford. I just put a 302 on a uber cheap engine stand and it sags under the weight of the motor. I happened to pick this one up at a show for $25....not my best idea. HF has some decent stands....look for a beefy head tube. part that slides into the stand....
