1). What tool do I need to press on a new damper? 2.) Does the key go on the crank first & press damper over key? 3.) Should I heat the damper B4 installation? I got a high frequency vibe/buzz in my gas pedal and steering wheel ; really noticeable when I get on the throttle. Not hardly noticeable cruising at 45 and below. Going to start at the damper since it looks like the rubber has detoriated. Want to get most of my "Ducks in a Row",b4 I go at it. Any suggestions appreciated.
On all the dampers I have installed, I just used the damper bolt (5/8-18 approx. 2" of thread) and carefully threaded/pressed it back on, making sure it is going on squarely, then torque to specs. Double check that the crank snout and damper ID has no damage, clean and apply a little anti-seize, see if you can rotate the crank so the keyway is facing upwards, you might have to install the bolt/washer to rotate the crank. With the keyway facing upwards, can install the key and not worry about it falling off, plus you can watch it as the damper slides over it and make sure everything is OK. Also, check the oil seal to make sure no damage when removing the old damper. Vibe/buzz could be a number of things, tires out of balance, driveshaft etc., may not necessarily be damper/engine balance. Is your car auto or manual, I know on manual trannys, when certain components start to go, like throwout bearing, you can feel when clutch pedal is depressed......... At least changing out the damper, if same buzz etc., is still there, can rule that out..........good luck! I gather you have a puller for removing the damper?? David
Ditto on using the bolt to install, recently installed the damper on my 331... As far as buzz/vibration, if it's in the engine, should be approx same with engine running in neutral...
What ever you do...Dont use heat to install the balancer. Also, put a film of grease on the frt seal and damper snout surface that contacts the grease seal so the seal does not get scuffed on start up.
Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated! Feeling my way along w/this job. I don't think it's drive shaft - get vibes in neutral. I have C4 auto trans. I think the damper may be the cause, or part of the cause, looks like rubber is cracked and bulging. I noticed it while doing work under the car. I have some pix somewhere, C if I can post them later.
I went and got a piece of all thread the same size as the damper bolt and a couple of nuts to fit it. I cut a small block of 2x4 to fit over the face of the damper and drilled a hole in the middle. If you thread the all thread into the crank, install the damper onto the end of the crank, then put the block of wood over that...you can use one of the nuts and a washer to easily pull the damper onto the crank...AND you don't run the risk of ruining the crank by stripping the threads out! PS...I use a nut from a riding mower that holds the blades on for my "driver" for the wood block...you don't need a washer with it, as it already has a shoulder on it for the blade
I saw a guy on U-tube put his damper in an oven for 30min at 195 before putting it on the crank. think that wud be detrimental to the damper? It went petty easy after he did it. He sed the instructions that came w/ it specified doing it that way. Just throwing it out there!
The tool for removing it normally also has a tool for installing it too.around here autozone parts store lets you use these tools for free you pay for it then when done they reimburse you. They aren't that expensive though. What ever you do don't pound it on with hammer.
I know several folks who have ruined a crank by pulling a balancer on with the bolt...mostly on brand X engines though. I think they have a smaller crank bolt to begin with. Stripping out the threads is easily done. A lot of times, the first threads will get boogered up if someone doesn't use the proper insert for the puller to begin with...and things usually go downhill from there. I have less than $10 in the all-thread deal, and I don't have to run to town to get one when I need it. I also typically put a little anti-seize on the inside of the balancer before I pull it on. They always pull right on with very little effort. I've never heated one up to put it on, but I suppose that would work. Not sure how fast you would have to be, and I'd want some GOOD welding gloves. Please video it if you try it... Especially if you don't have the welding gloves and try it with oven mitts or something. I'm actually pulling for you to succeed...BUT...if it should happen to go terribly awry, please don't deprive the rest of us of the potential AWESOME entertainment value . Lord knows I could have been a YouTube sensation if I'd videod just a small fraction of umm..."well...it seemed like a good idea at the time" moments over the years!
Nope, no way... Should require far less torque to pull balancer in to position than final torquing of bolt... If not something is wrong and balancer needs to be removed and inspected again...
While that is true and I openly admit to doing it many times myself.. Maxx is right on target about those brand X motors having smaller bolts which can result in galled and rolled threads in the cranks snout and also the bolt. Fords are slightly larger but I've seen it happen many times even with the stronger ARP stuff too. This typically occurs because the bolt is not designed nor intended to be used in higher tension loads(such as seating a slightly smaller interference fit crank damper onto the larger diameter crank snout) with only the first several bolt threads having minimal engagement into the snout. A very simple test is to place the balancer onto the snout and count the number of threads that will engage into the snout. Then pull the balancer back off and rethread it that same amount back into the cranks snout. Now wiggle it around to see how limited that thread engagement really is. Then imagine the amount of stress and friction being applied to those far fewer threads and the face of the washer and bolt as you try to drive that balancer on only using a bolt. The proper tool has a bearing that reduces the friction while it is fully seated into the cranks snout. Thus.. spreading the load over many more threads in the process. In other words.. the bolt and snout threads are designed to be loaded approaching or nearing peak torque loads when most of the threads have already been fully engaged. A balancer that is not seated substantially will start to pull too hard on far fewer threads and leads to galling in several locations. And if you value the thrust bearing.. get rid of that old block of wood and BFH method too. This is just one of the many vid's floating around in the worldwide web that shows the proper tools. Or just make one and use a torrington or roller bearing with sleeved bolt to end up with the same result.
Basically don't be a cheapskate and spend a couple pennies and get the correct tool and be done with it.
