Help;Looking at a motor tomorrow to purchase.

What do I need to check for when looking at used engines,this one in particular the story is, it was built and dyno tuned by a shop, converted to FI and the project never got off the ground. AFR heads, 347 stroker, etc. What do I watch out for it is a large sum of money to spend, he supposedly has receipts. IF an engine was run on the dyno several times then how can i tell?

It is in a fox body with all the FI hardware and electronics minus the distributor and headers.

without removing the oil pan or intake, what can be inspected?

Please give me some suggestions as im looking at it tomorrow, am anxious and it is also my bday tomorrow so im...Excited to say the least.

 

Tbh I'd forsure be reading ALL paperwork and make sure it matches the engine.. If it's been on a dyno it's prob been broken in which is good, and I would partially pull it apart, intake oil pan valve covers. Spend the little extra on some gaskets to make sure yur gettin what you pay for, I don't have much experience with this though.. Someone else should know every trick and what to look for

 

Hate buyin an engine unless I personally know the history, Building new is always better, because then you know what you have!

 

I am asuming he was in way over his head with the aftermarket ecu,and just never got the motor going. I will pull the valve covers off for sure, and probably the oil pan...Any way to check oil pressure without starting the engine?

 

With a reversable drill motor, long 1/4" drive extention and a 1/4" drive socket...If you plan on working on fords alot weld an old socket to an old extention....You do not want it to fall off and into the pan....Stick it down the distributor hole and over the oil pump driveshaft and spin it with the drill counter clockwise....You will need to hook up a mechanical pressure gauge to to the fitting in front of the oil filter

 

how well do you know/trust the Guy that is selling the motor?

"it is a large sum of money to spend."

is this as much as building it yourself?

 

Exactly how much money are we talking here?

 

I hate to say this, but buying from someone you don't know and relying on paperwork is like putting a single bullet in a gun and spinning the barrel....................it could be good or could be bad.
Another RED FLAG is that the motor is still in the car minus stuff to make it run...................WHY????? If the guy was serious about selling it should be able to be started or be out of the car with the pan and intake off....................and maybe both heads off?
You really need to pull the pan, take a look at the bearings, pull the intake and really see what you've got. Without doing at least that you could be buying junk.
Also another RED FLAG is not being able to hear the motor run!
Just a short story; I had a friend who spent probably 2/3 times what you are thinking about spending on a 347 motor. He tried to put a fuel injection system on the motor and tried to tune it himself with a laptop. What he did was flood the cylinders with fuel and hydraulically lock the motor...............this cost him another $2000 dollars to have it fixed, bent rod, bearings gone, crank reground.......................only because he didn't have a clue what he was doing.........................It is always better to buy from someone you know, or do it yourself.........................IMHO

 

Most Important ,compression and valve sealing;you should pull all spark plugs and check compression. During this time you could do a oil pressure test-some what. To hear the engine you really need a quiet exhaust system. Hope this helpsracingflag:.

 

My advise?........Dont, If you have the money.....build one yourself or pay to have it built. IMO

 

i would try to strike a deal with the guy that gives him half payment then you take motor apart and inspect every think or take it to a machinist to inspect every thing. then when it checks out good you give the rest of the payment to the guy.

 

THANK YOU! you have all given me very good input. We are talking around 3k for the engine from intake to pan including ecu and a T-5 with one of those crazy clutches and flywheels and all that jazz. Ifigure I could resell the T5 and trick flow intake and ecu to recoup around 1200$.

The guy had no hesitation in mentioning towing the car to the shop and letting me remove the drivetrain here, as he plans to sell the body and suspension...Im going to check it out but will only bring half the money and no tools. Make sure I take my time.

 

THANK YOU! you have all given me very good input. We are talking around 3k for the engine from intake to pan including ecu and a T-5 with one of those crazy clutches and flywheels and all that jazz. Ifigure I could resell the T5 and trick flow intake and ecu to recoup around 1200$.

The guy had no hesitation in mentioning towing the car to the shop and letting me remove the drivetrain here, as he plans to sell the body and suspension...Im going to check it out but will only bring half the money and no tools. Make sure I take my time.

 

$3000 seems a lot TO ME for a question mark.

 

$3000 is a good price if its what its claimed to be. thats why i recomend doing the pay half now and the other half when it checks out. also i would recomend having a thrid party hold the other half. if your having a machine shop inspect it i bet they would be willing to hold the money.