Took the Sprint for a dyno tune yesterday but didn't get the results I'd hoped for. The 4160 used Holley carb I rebuilt has some issues. First problem is the accelerator pump check valve isn't working right so its not giving an adequate squirt. So, big time stumble coming off idle. Tuner worked on it but couldn't get it going. Suggests I replace the fuel bowl. But there are more issues. Even when RPMs are built up and it appears to be pulling well, A/F ratio is jumping around lean to rich. Not sure what I'm going to do. I have another used (junk?) 4160 but not confident in that one because the secondary throttle shaft is loose. Could exchange the base plate but what else is worn out on it? I can buy a 600 Street Avenger for $325. Don't know if that includes a electric choke and AT kickdown. But, looking around on the Forums this morning I'm reading that Holley is near bankruptcy and quality is way off. Multiple stories of guys going thru 3-4 new carbs to get one that works. LAST thing I want to do is shell out for a new one and have a bunch of problems. Maybe pick up another used carb if I can find one that's GOOD. Seems like my chances of finding a good one aren't a lot different if I buy new or used. Anyone have a GOOD used Holley 600 with vacuum secondaries and electric choke? Not looking for one that needs a rebuild. Got enough of them.
give this guy a call. http://www.racingjunk.com/category/...lley-Carburetors-650-750-850-CFM-TRADES-.html
If you are not carb savy and don't want to mess with the tricky tuning then I would get an Edelbrock 600cfm electric choke 1406 for $300 and be done. Sure a well tuned holley usually make more power but takes more time to tune and has more things to go wrong and adjust. Plus if you ar epaying somebody to tune you will save alot of time/money going with the edelbrock.
I haven't heard that about Holley, but in this economy I can see why. Fuel injection is also killing the cab market. Have you looked at the new Summit brand carbs? They are based on the old Ford design. I'm thinking about buying one for my car....
No, haven't looked at them. Anyone tryed them? Or maybe the new 4160? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-80457S/ Its less than the price I got on the Street Avernger.
Actually the Summit brand is a remake of a Holley that emulated the Ford with a top cover instead of end bowls - but it is all Holley.
I took a chance on a rebuilt Holley 600 from Jeggs with manual choke, and have bin happy with it, I'm thinking under two hundred dollars?
Thanks for all the suggestions. I had a PCV valve on one valve cover and an vented cap on the other. Think it was letting too much air in so I replaced the vented cap with a sealed one. Runs better but still has a stumble with added light throttle. Finally got back at the carb today but didn't make any progress. First problem is the acc pump isn't working right. Blew out the main body passage both ways with carb cleaner. I exchanged the fuel bowl (incl check valve) and diaphragm with one off another 4160. The (new) needle valve under the nozzles was leaking down so I exchanged it with another and it held fuel above it much better. Still not perfect but the tiny bit of fuel above the needle valve tood about a min to leak down. Don't think that's my problem. Only thing left that I know to try is the gap between the check ball and its retainer. Did not check that when it was apart but it seems unlikely it would be wrong on both fuel bowls. Right now this carb is looking pretty good. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-M08600VS/
Does that mean I could use Holley parts to tune the Summit carb? Would feel more comfortable buying a Summit carb is I knew it would take Holley jets, power valve, etc.
those are a remake of the holley copy of the autolite 4100. they should acceopt regular holley jets,needle seats and power valves if im not mistaken it has been a while since ive seen one.they are good daily driver/ light strip duty carburators for a driver thats NOT looking for MAX power and frequent adjustments/tuning.
Can't quite give up on the old Holley Didn't pull the trigger on ordering a new carb. The accelerator pump is working pretty well now. Went to the Holley web site and read up a little on them. Learned that using the #2 screw position is NOT helpful for more early squirt. Just the opposite. So, back to #1 hole. Picked up a kit of cams at Advance, found Holley's listing of least-to-most aggressive, and put the most aggessive (brown) cam one. Not much improvement. Checked the size of my nozzles. They're 37s, which Holley says should have the larger capacity 50 cc pump kit to fully utilize. I'm guessing 37s are big enough. Then found Holley's graph of cam lift curves. The brown cam is NOT the best cam for strong squirts off idle. Blue is better. Put the blue one on in #1 screw hole and it eliminated the hesitation. Still have some flutter under light, steady throttle and some at idle. Bigger jets? Gotta do some more reading. Found a solution to my wheel spin. Just need someone riding shotgun. Even slim little wifey is enough. Got the tach installed and ran it at WOT till 1st-to-2nd shift at about 5500. That'll do. Tomorrow's another day. Anyone have any suggestions on how to eliminate the flutter? WOT works great.
