Mine is tired. I'm pretty sure it's a 6cyl cable too, as it's too long and thus needlessly looped. I like my throttle to feel light, but I have to put a strong return spring on my carb or else it can bind. I currently have a much stronger spring than I feel like I should need. Last night the throttle stuck open again even with this big spring. I wasn't in a dangerous situation, but I could have been. And I was able to bump the pedal to get it back to idle. But I had my little boy in the car at the time, so I'll take that as a warning. I've lubricated it before and can do it again, I could play with the springs yet again, but no. Enough's enough, it's time to fix this right. So the first question: Am I right in assuming there are at least two cables for the Maverick/Comet - a shorter V8 cable and a longer I6 one? I assume stock cables are reproduced, because I see similar ones in a lot of Fords, but I bet they come in a wide array of lengths and I bet there aren't any Maverick-specific ones. What length do I need? I need it long enough to get a smooth curve from the firewall to the carb, but short enough that it doesn't make any unnecessary curves or loops. Does anybody know of a suitable application that works if I can't find one for a Maverick? I've seen a few universal kits. I know Lokar makes several, Mr. Gasket has one, Summit lists a couple more brands - AED and CSR, and I can walk into Autozone right now and buy one made by Spectre. I'm leaning in that direction because it's priced right, I can see it before I buy it, don't have to wait on shipping, and I can cut it to fit. Is anybody here using the Spectre cable? Or any of the others? Got any positive/negative comments or experiences to share about any of these?
I'm currently running the Spectre one for the throttle and the Lokar for the AOD TV cable they seem to work well together. As far the the Spectre goes, its a pretty decent kit for the price, the only thing I would advise you about it, is be careful when your tightening it to the firewall as the end of the cable is aluminum and being that you can't get both hands on it to back the nut to the cable. there is a chance you put too much behind the wrench and break the aluminum end off... Just be aware of that, but I haven't had any problems with it since the install.
Thanks for the tip! That's just the kind of thing I needed to hear, 'cause I'm just the type of guy who'd break that piece right off.
im running the lokar one. my stock one broke last time i went to the track. i looked really cool idleing off the start line . i had the lokar one so i made it work. its a little tricky to attach it to the stock pedal but not to hard. it sounds like the same deal with the spectra one on where it goes through the firewall. its nice because it doesnt have a spring and you can use aftermarket springs to set the tention that you desire. my throttle blades like to stick also but they only do it just off idle so its idle will be high some times if the spring tention is not enough. for yours i would either disassemble the throttle plate, clean and polish the shafts and there bores. or get a new throttle plate for the carb.
It wasn't long ago that I rebuilt the carb, and I cleaned and lubed all that. Without the throttle cable or the spring connected it operates very smoothly. I think it's the actual cable binding up on me. What made it tricky? I haven't looked yet at how the stock cable connects to the pedal, is it different than the way the universal ones do?
i just took the end of the cable and attached it to one side of the top of the pedal. it works fine and you cant see it anyways
There are several different configurations of cables that came factory on these cars, depending on the year and engine. Different gas pedals as well.
the stock pedal uses a c chanel that a single eyelet on the stock cable goes through. the lokar cable has a c chanel and is designed to go over a single flat rod with a hole in it. i put the c chanel on the lokar cable over one side of the c chanel on the stock throttle pedal. then i put the locar pin in from the out side so the side of the pin that takes a e clip was in between the c chanel of the throttle pedal. i was able to push the e clip on but its going to be tricky to get the e clip off the pin if i ever need to take it appart. it all works well though
