Hello again everyone, Man it just doesnt stop. My original post was for a starter still cranking after the key was pulled out. Thanks for all the advice but I think I have narrowed it down to the ignition switch on the column. looks rusty and is probably hanging inside. OK, here's my problem. All the parts stores around, while also having a wildly swinging price range, all carry the switch with the mounting holes on the right side (looking straight at the plunger end). My '74 Comet needs the holes on the left side. I ocasionally deal with a company called "Autokrafters" who sell Maverick and Comet parts. In their catalog, is a picture of what I need (holes on the left side), But the web site shows the part with the holes on the right. On calling them on the phone, I was told it was for a Maverick, but the picture showed them on the left. They were'nt very helpful for this one. OK after all that, is there anyone out there who can put me onto a real Comet switch, or will I have to try the parts yard? Of course any advice is greatly appreciated! Tom
There is no difference between a Comet and Maverick switch. The switch they are showing should be the correct one. Maybe you're just looking at yours wrong. Buy the switch they have and if it's wrong, then bring it back.
There are a couple people on this board that I can bet that they have a nice/in good working order but used ignition switch that they would sell you at a reasonable rate. Craig Selvey being one, Mean Maverick (forgive me but the actual name evades me at the moment) Either of those guys would most likely have an ignition switch and treat you right. Look them up and give them a try
I would definitely believe it is the ignition switch. I had an '80 Pinto back in 1993 that did the very same thing - I was driving down the highway, and the starter began to turn, I pulled off, removed the key, and the starter never disengaged. We left the car on the side of the highway, and pulled the plates, never to return. It had "lived its purpose", and that was that! Besides, the car was a mess in so many other ways. Chris
Hey Tom, I notice you did replace the selonoid with a new one. It is still possible that you got a bad one even though it is new. I went through three different new selonoids until I got a good one. Two came from advance and the third from NAPA. - Might give it another try and see if it solves the problem if you can't find the right switch. - Matt
Tom You just might try some condenser contact spray . Spray the he$$ out of the switch work the key back and forth with the battery disconneted maybe it will work maybe not but worth a try .. Jay
From looking at pictures it appears that a 71 Mustang switch is the same. A guy on ebay wants to sell a lot of 10 for $180. Maybe we could group-buy? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-N...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Edit: Looks like there is a difference in connectors between a 70 and later versions. So these should fit 71-up Mavs/Comets. For a 70 we may have to reuse the old connector.
Hi, I am a new member with a1974 Comet with 10,900 original miles. Our problem is that it is very hard to turn the ignition switch in the column. You have to turn it till it stops, then really force it to get the engine to crank. My daughter is not strong enough to turn it. We think that it needs a new column ignition switch. Where is a good place to buy one, and what is the best way to replace. Any pictures? Thanks
spray electrical contact cleaner in it,work it back in forth with the battery diconnected mine was frozen up from sitting 20 years its ok now
Had the same problem with mine, wouldn't move far enough to start consistently and couldn't turn it backwards into ACC position. I disassembled the cylinder, cleaned out all of the old, hard, 40-year-old grease, lubed everything with light oil. Readjusted the electrical switch on the column. Has been working like new for two years now.
'74 comet ignition problems Thank you. I will try this today. This car had been sitting for quite some time as well. It has only 10,300 original miles on it.
Did you need a steering wheel puller to get to the ignition? I am noticing that the plastic pieces are very brittle. Any help with this disassembly would be greatly appreiciated. Thanks
Yes....you will need a steering wheel puller in order to get to it all. There is also some linkage/harware/etc located at the top of the steering column located under the very first "collar" (closest to the steering wheel) that moves and will probably need lubricated.
