ok i went to take off my valve covers and both sides i have a bolt on the rockers thats cracked and most of all the push rods are bent so i have to get new ones do i need to get lifters too??? is this the whole reason my engine wasnt running right??
you should not need new lifters. you may need new valves. have you done a leak down test? it will show if the valves are bent.
how do i do that???? i have the valve covers off and the push rods out still havent taken the intake off yet
the cracked bolt is like the nut that tightens the rocker down like has a crack so when its tightened down it spreads. and i said this in my other thread last night the guy who talked me through how to put my engine back together and reseal it told me to torque each rocker down to 25 then back it off 3/4 of a turn and it will be set. i was then told last night by a couple people on here that my rockers ( stock ones ) i just have to torque them to 20-30 and then leave them there set. but i did this like a month ago and didnt what i was doing so i listened to him. had a lot of problems getting my engine to run past couple days so i pulled the valve covers today and had the cracked nut on one rocker and it was turned to the side same on the other side of the engine had a couple turned to the side. i pulled the rods and rolled them on the table and they were bent now im lost
Yea, I read your older posts. Did you ever try and start engine or turn over and it stopped turning or just lock up? May have flooded with gas and got a hydro-lock which would bend the push rods. I can't say for sure but with the rockers being 3/4 turn loose I don't think that would bend the rods. With all the rockers off, check and see if the top of valves are the same height. Try and push valves down an see if they stick. If all is still together, pull spark plugs and by hand, breaker bar ab socket, turn engine over and closely watch the valves for smooth operation. Helps to have a helper with that. Even with bent push rods they should give a fair amount of movement. by the way, how bad are they bent and did you check real good when you replaced head gaskets!
when i was trying to get the engine running it was backfiring alot and it was about half the times it just cut out but i thought it was flooding out. i checked the rods when i was changing the head gasket and they were fine. the pushrod on the rockers that, when i took the valve covers off, were side ways were noticable bent. so i pulled them all. so i need to reinstall them and turn it to make sure everything works??? do i need to pull the intake to make sure that the push rods go onto the lifters??
If not bent bad and you can see in hole that it goes in lifter, ok. Or you will need new rods anyway so you could do this when you have new push rods which may be a better idea! Just make sure you roll engine over by hand with rods in place an observe for sticky valves. You may be lucky enough that is all you need. Also, your rough checking engine to see if timing chain is out of time and valves are hitting pistons. Be good idea to do a compression check with new rods in place, and yes I would do it cold first and see what compression your hitting. Leak down test is great but you may have trouble finding one if you don't want to buy one. Compression test should be good enough.
ok ill order new push rods and see what happens. and ill get a compressor tester and do that too. thanks for all your help and more to come probably i thought i was getting close but just another step back. trying to get it done before my prom in 20days but idk if thats going to happen now
Pull your front cover...I cant help but think you installed the timeing chain incorrectly and have the cam out of phase with the crank. This would explain the bent pushrods. Unfortunately this also means you probably bent the valves and may have hurt a few pistons...Hope I am wrong here Shane. With the rockers in place and new push rods,(bent ones wont give you an accurate read) you can do a simple compression test to determine if the cyl bores are still sealing. If you get a good reading on all cyls (100 psi) then you should be allright as far as bent valves are concerned. I wouyld double check the T chain install first.Good luck man!!!
with all the rockers off, Im not sure he will get a good compression test. do some compression testers have check valves to let air in while cranking? you need to fill the cylinder during the intake stroke, which is why you perform a compression test with the throttle wide open during cranking. Im sure he will get some kind of reading which will verify a bent valve or not, but it might not make it up to 100psi. am I mistaken? :16suspect
yea the guy that i had help me talked me through the whole thing and he has been working on fords for like over 20 years i mean he just rebuilt a 302 and a 351 for his children's trucks and im guessing he did the same i mean idk but i followed what he told me and this is what i got.... so i need to pull the motor again i just tear it back down then???? i mean thats what i just have been doing the past couple months saving the money and all to replace the head gaskets and the timing chain and i need to pull that all off again right? how do i check to make sure the cam and all are phased right?
those valve adjustment specs dont seem right. if you have stud mounted rockers then that way is way wrong. you should never get to the point of 25 ft/lbs of torque on the adjuster nuts. if you do that means you have bottomed the valves on a piston or valve spring. this would bend the push rods. if you have pedistal mount rockers then you torque them then leave them at that torque. a pic of the heads showing the valve springs, and rocker arms will help identify wich set up you have.
here is a pic from when i had engine apart a couple months ago i dont have any new ones i can take one if needed tomorrow. from what i know they are stock since the motor is number matching to the car
