i need to revive the paint on my maverick, it does not have a clear coat and i was gonna use some rubbing compound to try and get most of the oxidation off, does anyone have any advive or tricks before i start??? i have never used rubbing compound before just wax, so is there an order i need to follow and what kind of compound should i get????
Yes, a rubbing compound will pretty much take off too much paint. Just use a polishing compound but don't expect the shine to last very long, especially if the car stays outside every day. My guess is within 3-6 months it will be just as bad as before if it stays outside. If you keep it polished quite frequently it may look pretty good for a little longer. You really need to start preparing for a new base/clear paint job if you really want it to look nice.
here maybe this post might help. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=8402&page=1 i bought a maverick last year and it sat outside for over 5 years. the post will tell you what i did to get it to the way it is now. you'll ahve to go thought the pages but your see the out come. bad paint can come out if its done right. now as for the scratches.. well thats a whole anohter story
Car Skin I got a bottle of Car Skin from a friend of mine...it is made for just for that ..I used it on my car and it made a world of diffence...Only thing is that I dont know where he ordered it from...maybe you could look it up with a search engine...When I get to can in my hand I will give you the info on it...
Oxidized paint is pretty much dead paint. What that means is that the paint is worn out and it's breaking down. You can compound it all you want, but you will only be removing the top part of the paint and within a few months it will be dull again. If the paint is very thin, you could end up removing it completely. Using a very mild compound or polish will take the worst of the oxidation off and keeping it waxed will help it last a bit longer, but ultimately the only solution is a repaint.
Wet sandpaper is the tick ,get some 2000 grit paper and a sponge and garden hose and go at it keeping it wet at all times,once your done it'll look it'll be readdy for the polish, then the wax
If you do this, be prepared to have a lot of bare spots. The paint is most likely too thin to do this without sanding through, especially around edges and corners.
3M makes some compounds called Perfect/Finesse-it that are excellent. Directions must be followed closely, my 70 had 30+ years of oxidation when I got it. Granted my car doesn't sit outside and never sees rain but it still looks good for a 30 year old paint job. Check this thread out http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=5001
hum good point so explain to me why my paint aint dull? i don't get it? i mean i know the paint won't look like new, but man wouldn't you say my ugly green / yellow maverick looks 10 times better then it did when i got it? i mean if any paint isn't taken care of, course it will go bad in a few months. right? i don't know i'm a bit confused jean.. enlighten me hense my blue car when i first bought it.. very badly oxidized... but with the same methods i used with my ugly green / yellow maverick the paint shined like a mofo, and it was that way for years until i did end up painting it because well i just wanted to paint it. but to me i thing the only way you could say that the only solution is to repaint it is if you expect it to look like new woundn't you say?
hey, mother car polish has a 2 step polish u can buy at autozone that revives the paint. i think it was only about 20 bucks for it.
My My paint was in the same cond...... I used a 4 step process (If you want to call it that) first I used rubbing compound (the reddish-orange stuff) very gritty .... lightly and consistently with a bucket of water that I changed often (5-6 times for the whole car second a polishing compound (white stuff) no water but still not rubbing very hard third (let me say at this point the car was 200% better looking) a buddy of mine had a buffer and knew how to use it (had worked in a paint/detail shop for years in his youth) so he buffed the car with a light polishing compund and then a glaze (this took us together about 4 hours) fourth lots of wax .... I waxed the car within a day (drove it home at night and left it in the garage (no sun)) and then I would wax it every 30 days for about 6 months the only problem I have with the method I used is that the paint is very thin in some areas and the primer/base bleeds through (it is reddish and my paint is green) and I would have liked for that not to have happened, but hey, the paint IS 30 years old Still looks great ....... Robert
I didn't mean to confuse you Maverick Man. I was referring to paint that is too far gone to save. I should have clarified that. Oxidation is the natural break down of paint pigments which in most cases is caused by exposure to weather or lack of mantainance. Back in the late 1980's, we discovered another reason why some cars of the same make with the same color paint were oxidizing worse than others. There were alot Fords coming in that had problems with blue, green and red paint. Setting aside the obvious reasons why paint oxidizes, we decided to dig a little deeper as to why some paint was bad and some wasn't. We picked out a model year Ford ( I can't remember which year it was anymore) from the 70's and kept track of the number of cars that had bad paint and which ones didn't. What we discovered was quite interesting. Nearly all the Fords with the badly oxidized paint were built at the same assembly plant, which meant they were all painted at the same plant. It was entirely possible that the huge vants of paint at the plant may have been improperly mixed, which could explain why the paint was failing sooner than it should. I admit that may be an isolated case, but it may or may not be why the paint on your Mavericks may be good on one and bad on the other. Ther is a more common reason though, and it goes back to the mantainance bit. There are those poor unforunate cars out there that have NEVER seen a drop of wax in thier lives. For cars that have no clear-coat and are kept out in the elements, that's bad news for the paint. If the paint has had at least some wax applied to it in it's lifetime it will help keep the paint from breaking down so fast. Even a little protection is better than none at all.
don't worry im always confused! ah ok... i get it! but you are very true about people that don't wax there car.. i'd say about 95% of the population!
I know old thread, but not many threads on compound,polish,wax,glaze, sealant, coating let alone oxidation removal. So this should be one of the few that pops up in a search.. If you have a garage to store car. You cant beat this method as its non abrasive aproach. Grab yourself a microfiber towl and some meguiers #7 show car glaze Generously throw prodict down and rigorously work it in to the panels Let it soak on panel for about 24 hrs prior to buffing off Reapply 2 or 3 more times but buff off like you would normaly. If you dont want to put in the work The best polish ive found to work on a very oxidzed paintjob is 3D HD Adapt Works well hand applied, but with a polisher it gives a mirror reflection/shine and it wound haze or scour the paintwork surface like compound will
