ok i have done some reading on here but have not found to much info. all i want to do is remove my shock towers? whats the best way to go about doing that . or is there a cheap and best way
If you remove the towers completely you will have to go to a different front suspension set up such as Mustang two or a strut type front suspension.Both have been done successfully on our cars.What most do is "notch" the towers to gain more room for headers and plug changes. Best way to remove them is to disassemble them from their mout points.Remove the bolts and spot welds holding them in place so as to retain the rest of the fender aprons.That way you still have something to attach your fenders too.
You can remove the whole tower and leave the aprons intact.just remember you lose the upper controll arm mount point when you remove em and will have to change the front suspension.
Not sure that even with a strut suspension and notched towers you would have clearance for a modular. Probably need a Mustang II type suspension. http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/EngineDimensions.html Check out www.rrs-online.com www.ajeracing.com http://rcmotorsportsparts.homestead.com/
To put a 4.6 OR to totally remove the towers (which must be done for 4.6), you must go with a Mustang 2 suspension (or equivalent). Do a search for Mustang II, Stang 2, S2, Mustang 2, etc... There have been TONS of posts on the subject. You just haven't been using the right search words. Edit: Forgot about M2 and MII
i wouldnt mind going to a mustang 2 style but i guess my main question is can i just cut one out of a mustang 2 and put it in with some fabricating of course. but why do i have to buy one for 1500 bucks..
Yes. You can swap it in from a Mustang2 or Pinto. Bobcat for that matter... The biggest drawback there is 4 lugs. So you have to buy 5 lug conversion rotors. Then there is the chance of getting a donor car with a worn out rack or springs that are wrong for your car. So now you need to buy a new rack, aftermarket springs to get the correct rate vs weight, and add the rotors as well as all the other parts to rebuild the brakes that might be needed. Hoses to calipers... Still probably cheaper, but you should take these into consideration and add up the costs along with the cost of the donor parts. Not to mention your labor finding/removing/transporting the donor car/parts. With the kits, it seems to me that you should get everything required, everything new, possibly a warranty, and the only labor you have to provide is installing. Just a thought. You should read what comes with the kits and make your own determination. I would think the kits are complete, but I don't know for sure as I have never been in the market for a kit. My .02
