I have to admit to being somewhat of a cheapskate, so bear that in mind as you read on. I also do not presume to be the first one to come up with this idea - far from it. I just want to know why it wont work (apparently) and is therefore not in widespread use. Fair enough? So we want to improve traction in our Mavs. To do that we have traditional traction bars (slapper type) and the evolutionary Caltracs. We can't switch to coilovers without damaging our upper shock mounts, and a complete coilover rear conversion would be quite an undertaking, so ladder bars are out either way. From a practical - not theoretical - standpoint, what would be wrong with old school "radius rods"? You simply connect a long connector (rod, pipe, whatever with radius rod ends) to an under-axle bracket (below the spring perch) and a similar bracket on the front sub-frame rail. (see very crude drawing attached) Now, you're not relying on the leaf spring at all, as you do with slappers and Caltracs, but transferring axle torque directly to the front frame. Also, with a leaf spring suspension, the "push" goes from the tires, through the rear end, through the leaf springs, through the back half of the unibody, to the front of the car where the weight/resistance is. But with this solution, we could bypass (most of) the weakness of the leaf spring assembly and unibody by transferring the "push" from the rear end directly forward to front sub-frames. Yes, the rear axle of a leaf spring car does have slight front/back movement as it travels up/down over terrain - but not much. It seems like the length of the connector and the rear radius rod end would compensate for that and prevent any binding. Also, as we're retaining the leafs, there is no need for an upper radius rod to keep the top of the axle positively located, such as would be found on a multi-link suspension. A single lower link is all we need. Okay, I suppose ground clearance would be a concern, but apart from that why wouldn't this work? Fabrication is simple and tolerances are forgiving. Seems like a pretty cheap, easy, and effective solution...???
I would think that for that to work the rod would have to be welded to the bottom of the axle perch . . . otherwise with 2 points that rotate freely, I don't see there being much of a difference in keep the rotational force going to the tires vs wasted.
you will have bind unless you are able to determine the exact right length to match the arch that the rear end travels in. lots of trucks use this type of method to stop axle wrap but there suspension binds up and limits travel. be a maverick and try it out. take pics. post progress. document all steps and keep the posts coming. this could prove entertaining at the least and be highly effective at best.
That's the type shelby used on the mustangs, i say go for it. Take lot's of pics and report back with info :Handshake http://www.mustangsteve.com/underrides.html http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/al...n-master-1966-shelby-style-traction-bars.html
they also use a set up like that one on trucks , so try it and let us know I think its's a great idea!
That's how it was done 50 years ago but they weren't putting down the HP of today's cars. Truck tie rods and tie rod ends were used. Think you want the rod to mount lower under the axle. Expect the center of rotation during spring wrap is at the spring. Keep the joints on both ends of the rods. If the extended bracket under the axle can't come forward, the spring can't wrap up. This design appeals to me 'cause it should be effective for both acceleration and braking. I've considered doing the same thing but haven't moved on it. Look forward to your posts if you do it.
Awesome - thanks for the feedback everyone. I'd never heard of Shelby Underrides, so that lends a little credence to the idea. I am NOT a fabricator but I've got a wire-feed welder, a metal cutting blade for my circular saw, some plate steel and angle iron, several feet of bailing wire and two rolls of duct tape - that should cover just about cover it... Don't look for progress anytime soon but I will start giving this some actual thought and planning... PS. Here is something I did NOT consider. Thanks for the link maverick75...
Yep there factory underide traction bars and were stock on shelbys have them on my 68 Shelby they work very well for stopping axle windup and some traction mainly wheel hop though. They were made by traction master and there still in business and doing very well.http://tractionmaster.com/ Just remember to have the car at ride height before welding the front pivot in place so the rear end is not in a bind.
Traction Master = $160/pr+shipping http://tractionmaster.com/app.html Mustangs Unlimited = $90+shipping http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=1069TMK+01 (but will they fit a '72 Maverick?) Or attempt to build myself (probably not in the near future...) hmmmm...
There not even a close comparison the mustangs unlimited are JUNK made who knows where? materials are ten times better and better quality from traction master trust me on this I have installed them both for customers.
Just a couple of ideas here. Take a look at this website, I know the owner Steve and he has been in business for some 15 years building/perfecting the "truck arm" rear suspension. Some of his setups have been in the faster cars at the "Silver States Classice" and at least one was on a 200+mph car. Yes, the rear suspension does require a little work. http://www.hotrodstohell.net/index.htm The other, is that during the early SS drag racing days Plymouth/Dodge came out with a rear suspension trick that allowed them to rotate the housing to achieve the proper pinion angle with the right springs and this gave them "No" wheel hop! My Maverick has an adjustable pinion angle as you can see in the picture...............and it uses "Ladder Bars" with regular ole shocks...................and hooks pretty well for a 30+ year old drag car! One other trick is stagger the shocks, one in front of the rearend and the other in the back and coupled with the right pinion angle does work quite well. I played around with my 97 Mustang Cobra changing the pinion angle and before I started the wheel hop was brutal................when I changed it no more wheel hop............although it went sideways during first and second gear. Just more fuel for the fire. IMHO
Wasn't the truck arm suspension used heavily in Nascar style racing? I vaguely remember a circle track friend of mine saying something like that. Basically it is a very long ladder bar that moves the instant center way far forward.
Excellent - thank you for the heads up!!! Whoooaaa...this flies in the face of EVERYTHING I've heard about leaf spring suspension cars. I thought running ladders bars - which essentially locks the entire rear end into a specific radius movement - was absolutely a no-no with leaf springs. The geometry of the spring movement and the ladder bar movement were fundamentally different and would put the rear end in severe bind. However, you're obviously running the setup with success. Now I'm completely corn-fused...
the diff is mounted to the springs with a device that lets the housing swivel and move. so now the ladder bars locate the diff front to rear. and the springs locate the side to side.
