Hey folks! So I'm trying to learn how to set my timing on my I6, and I've procured a timing light, but for the life of me I can't find any timing tape in the engine bay to use. It doesn't even appear that there ever was a reference to begin with! Any tips on what I should do?
On engines without marks on the balancer or a suspected slipped balancer I've always just test drive turn the distributor a little bit, keep turning until it pings then turn it back until it stops. It's probably not the best way but it works for me.
When you find the notch...mark it with something so yo can see it. I used a silver paint pen. You can use chalk if you like.
Second on the vacuum gauge. Adjust the timing untill you get the most vacuum. Then play with it a couple of degrees.
Thanks for all the input folks! Rthomas- I found the piece with the notches in it, but the numbers are long gone and there's no seperate notch to reference against, so I guess I'll have to use the vacuum method. Next question... How do I do that?
I don't want to start an ego/pride war here.. and I know that some are more or less just generalizing about setting initial timing during idle. But just because an engine makes more vacuum at one rpm point(idle/off-idle).. doesn't mean that you have even come close to optimizing the engine's vacuum(efficiency) at a higher rpm. Basic rule is this. If you add timing in one area.. it usually needs to be taken away from another.. and the total timing number created from the sum of all those parts. Also consider that an adjustable vac advance pot can be used to run more agressive initial settings since you can take it away at the pot. Relying too heavily on the factory vacuum pot is leaving power on the table since a heavier foot or sudden tip in will make the vacuum pots advance go away and adds too much timing varitaion. With quick throttle angle changes the timing will be all over the place and the motor will feel softer. Heavier initial timing combined with a tigher pot will keep it feeling snappier as you get pedal happy with your right foot. For best idle, vacuum, and off idle/light cruising torque under load.. I've always run very large intial settings(at times requiring carb idle circuit mod's to keep the lean misfires away).. then a tigher vacuum pot setting(to keep from over advancing and lean misfiring as a result).. and tighten up the mechanical while reducing its travel. And sometimes you get lucky and can run a very heavy second spring that only makes contact after the first spring stretches enough to engage it.. which acts like a travel limiter within the rpm range that the motor will be used. A vacuum guage, timing light, pen and paper, along with the hand tools needed to do the job are all that's needed. That and a decent ass-dyno with some big hills to hunt for pinging under load in higher gears. I've power tuned at least six or eight of those 200's in various models through the years.. and like most all factory motors.. they respond very well to more agressive initial settings in the sub-2,000 rpm range. Getting the midrange and upper timing curves tightened up to prevent pinging and lean misfires is the key to better mileage and a funner car to drive. Even on such a low powered motor such as this.. 20 ft/lbs just off idle is a piece of cake and only takes the time to do it and some gas for the test drives.
Hook it to manifold vacuum. Adjust your timing untill you get the highest amount of vacuum. And like I stated before, you can play with the timing after that a little if you want. Or you can go rebuild your dist. and add an adjustable vacuum pot and mess with the throw weights and springs, but it sounded like you just wanted to drive it.
Read this. http://classicinlines.com/Vacuum.asp Everything you need to know about tuning with a vacuum gauge to get you running.
Maverick Rebuilt (after burn down) start sometimes help needed Hi! after a crash caused by a trailer, one wire make a spark and caused a burn, as a result all the wiring and the plastic cover of the distributor were damaged, the wiring was rebuilt and the wall and the plastic top of the distributor were replaced, the problem is that the car sometimes work fine and sometimes refuses even start, sometimes we slightly move the time and the engine runs well but if we stop, the engine do not start and we will need to begin checking again, the question, there is some procedure to adjust the timing and there is some book that tell that or somebody may help me? thanks in advance Octavio
The 200 in my 71 would do that often, get the engine running all smooth, then it wouldn't start for anything. I finally tracked it down to an issue with the carburetor and a sticky butterfly valve (or choke plate). It worked fine once the engine was running, but just stayed full choke when trying to start. Other people may have better answers.
