Should I rattle can it or leave it?

Thinking about using rust oleum high gloss black on all finished sections of my car, just to preserve the metal until I have the funds to have it professionally prepped and painted.

But, sometimes when I look at a rattle-canned car, I think it looks tacky.

So, I need you guys to help me to decide if I should leave it "Calico" or start painting each panel as I finish them.

If I start to paint, I could have semi-decent body work done on the entire car in a couple hours, so I could technically have the car painted over the course of a weekend, and since it will be black and glossy, you will be able to clearly see my shoddy work and any remaining dents, scratches, etc.

Most importantly, to me, all rust will be prevented on all body panels due to the coat of rust oleum. That way if it takes me another 5 years to get paint-ready, I won't have to fix a bunch of rust spots.

 

Leave It!!!

 

For around 30$ find a body shop and have them spray a coat of urathane primer over the area. Urathane primer blocks moister better than spray cans will. I have seen rust come right back through spray can fixes.

 

they probrbly give good suggestion, but if you do decide to go with rattle cans. don't try to cover it in one coat. do 3 or 4 light ones so you get better and smoother coverage.

 

I would use an automotive paint.

You might check out
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html

Eastwood also has some low coast paints
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1453&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=1334&iSubCat=1453&page=1

 

Be careful that what ever you choose is compatible with the automotive paint that will be used to finally paint the car. My paint shop told me to use a high build automotive primer or a good self etching primer. I know that they cringe when you say "Krylon" or "Walmart" to them. They'll tell you that it will have to be completely stripped off to bare metal.

You don't want that to happen.

 

Get your game plan on the final look, talk to body shop on what paint they will use and ask them about the rattle cans. You may find out the rattle cans will cost hundreds of dollars to remove before they will put quality paint on. I'm sure others will chime in on the mixing of cheap paint before your show look!

Me Vote NO! I like the Look You have now,,,, Makes later look heck of a lot better with GEEZ is that the same ride?? !!!

 

The cost and extra work of removing the rust oleum was one of my concerns...

I never intended the rust oleum to be a base coat, but just protection until time to paint, then I would have it all taken off and back down to metal.

As for rust, I am not covering rust up, but just sealing it so it doesn't start. I do need to hit a spot on top where the vinyl top was. It is only primered, and I can see a little surface rust trying to form in one area. So I need to at least paint the top with something that seals after I get that rust re-removed.

All the other primer-colored areas on my car are either epoxy primer (dark gray) or primer over original paint (light gray) with only a couple of small spots actually primer-only over some ding repairs. Except for the entire top where the vinyl was. That is all primer-only, and what I am most worried about at this time.

 

If I'm going to spend thousands on a professionally done paint job later down the road, I would definitely want the car stripped to bare metal prior to being painted regardless... If it were a newer car with relatively decent original paint, I could see it, but a car this old, I'd want it bare metal first.

I'm not sure about rattle canning it gloss black though. If the car doesn't sit outside a lot, it might be alright. I would imagine it's going to come out more of a semi gloss finish though unless you do several coats, sanding between each coat.

 

Scoop...dont use rattle can paint on a car you plan to put real paint on later.I have seen the freakage first hand when I tell potential customers it all has to come off before I even consider putting primer on it.If you want to protect the panels from moisture damage use a good 2 part epoxy/urethane primer and keep the car dry.
you can buy the stuff in spray cans or buy it at your local paint jobber and get a
"preval" aerosol paint application kit.It comes with a jar to put your media in and an aerosol sprayer that screws onto the jar.Then you just shoot your automotive primer onto your auto.Nuff said.

 

i say leave it. your car and patches car make me feel beter about having a two tone blue and black primer car.

 

Spray bomb 6 months from now will look horrible

 

I agree with not rattle caning your Maverick as your going to maybe make more of a mess spray painting it with a rattle can then waiting for the time when you can do the "real" job, unless either way your going to strip it down to the bare metal then by all means rattle can away. I myself would go flat black and that would say i'm not quite ready for a finished paint job yet where a quicky gloss paint job may just say wow look at my cheap paint job. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

My advice. Follow Mavmans advice.
Dont even think about anything but automotive products. It just wont work.
Like I said before its a chemistry experiment and all the layers have to jive or your time and money is wasted.

 

Hmmm, I guess it was a good thing I asked before doing this. Sounds like it would have been a bad idea...