Was wondering what to check. The left hand turn signal works fine, the right hand signal (front bulb) is not coming on. The right hand signal (rear bulb) is coming on (not flashing of course), so I know the switch must be working. Tried different bulbs, even bought new ones, but still having issues. At first the parking light wasn't working either, but now that seems to be coming on. I tried to check with a tester, but I don't seem to be getting that to flash either. Could it be the lamp socket has gone bad (it looks good, no corrosion, wires leading to it look good)? I've got another socket, but I hate to cut/spice the wires if that's not the problem. Any suggestions as to trouble-shoot this seemingly simple issue? Thanks... Art
Defective bulb. Corrosion in socket. Clean contacts. Poor ground at socket. http://www.1bad6t.com/Maverick/repair/chassis_electrical_06.html
I replaced the bulbs with new ones, and even swapped the bulb with the "working" one on the other side, so it's not a bulb issue. It's not corrosion, the socket is very clean, contacts are very good. I checked all the basic stuff like that. If it's a ground issue, how do I track that down...?
I have a 74,so the wiring should be similar. Follow the wiring from your socket back about 9" or so. Undo the plug you'll find there and try your testlight at this plug. If still no power the turn signal switch may be bad. If you have power at the plug,the socket is bad. Looks can be deceiving! I've had sockets that look brand new have the wires broken internally and not work! If your socket looks good,and doesn't work,gently try cutting away the outer covering that the wires go through. You may find the wire has broken off inside this cover. You can solder it back on,if this is the case!
If the rear bulb lights up, would that indicate the switch is good? If I back track the wires with my tester (which has a pointed end so I can push through the outer wire coating) it "should" light up and flash, correct? Is there a way to check the ground from that socket (can I jump it to another ground wire or location)?
Update... Ok, I unwrapped the covering to the wire cluster quite a ways back. From the process of elimination, I've determined the wire that controls the turn signal is a white wire with a blue stripe. I've poked the wire with my tester a long ways back from the socket, but I cannot get it to light up. Following the wire further back it joins a larger cluster that runs under the radiator. I feel like I hit a wall, anyone have suggestions as to troubleshooting this?
Here is the schematic: http://1bad6t.com/Maverick/repair/76maverickwiring.pdf Looks like you are correct with the white/light blue wire. Maybe check pin 'S' at the bulk head connector? It should be on the firewall. Check both sides with your test light with the RH turn signal ON.
Quick Answer: Sounds like a bad turn signal switch/cam plate to me....but it is not a bad idea to do what the above members have suggested by making sure your front right turn signal wire is good on both sides of the firewall, leading back to the turn signal switch. You've already ruled out the bulbs/socket/connector, which is usually the culprit. Hey Art: turn signals, flashers, and brake light problems can be more of a pain than what it seems they should. Alot of thinking went into this seemingly simple vehicle operation, and circuitry. The above posts by the other members are leading you in the right direction. It seems like your problem is leading back to a bad front-right turn signal switch contact in the inner cam plate....but it could be the wires between there and the firewall connector. It sounds ironic, but alot of electrical problems, end up leading back to mechanical problems. Your turn signal cam is a mechanical device that gets alot of wear and tear, and is the most likely culprit, if the bulbs/sockets/connectors have been ruled out. 1. Since your left turn signal flashes, this means your turn signal flasher is good, because the same flasher controls flashing on both the left and right side. 2. You've already ruled out the bulbs, sockets, and connectors. 3. Just because the right-rear turn signal light comes on, does not mean that the complete turn signal switch/cam plate is all good. Alot of crazy things can happen when mecanical pieces are broken along side of electrical contacts. 4. For interest sake: The way the turn signal flasher circuit works in conjunction with the brake lights is this: The cam plate, inside the turn signal switch, chooses whether the REAR turn signal filamints are powered from the output of the brake switch, or the turn signal flasher output, depending on whether the left or right turn signal selector is selected. If the Right hand turn signal lever is selected, the cam plate switches, allow the brake light switch to ONLY be able to feed the LEFT brake light, if the brakes are pressed during right turn signal operation. The Right brake light is not actually coming on during this operation from the brakes switch, instead, the brake switch is being interrupted in the cam plate, and the RIGHT turn signal light (which is the same filamint as the right brake light) is being FLASHED ON AND OFF with the turn signal flasher, through the same cam plate switches, inside the turn signal switch mechanism. The turn signal flasher was originally a 2-terminal device that is controlled by temperature. When current for the turn signal/brake lights are flowing through the flasher, it simply opens and closes, like a classic Christmas light flasher, and allows the bulb to come on and off.
Rusty / Roger, Thanks for the help, looks like I've got a lot more diagnostics to do. I think the first thing is to check for power at the bulkhead (thanks for the wiring diagram). If no power, then check the turn signal cam. I'm assuming I'll need to tear apart the steering wheel to check on that? Appreciate the guidance! Art
Trying to find the bulk head connectors, are these it? If so, I don't even see a white wire with a blue line???
The bulkhead connector will be square...Roughly 3 inches square and black rubber(with many wires sticking out of it). It has two sides that sandwich it to and through the firewall. It will be below the master cylender and outboard of it (closer to the inner fender than the engine).good luck!!!
