Another question from the new guy! I noticed after returning from our 600 mile journey that there is an oil leak where the valve cover is bolted to the top of the engine. It was not there before. I see this and think that the gasket might need replaced - car has 57,000 miles on it and sat in a barn for 10 years -- so that makes sense to me. Is replacing the gasket no more than unbolting the cover, cleaning off the old, and putting on the new one? I should say this to give a frame of reference: changing the fan/alternator belt yesterday took me 10 minutes -- but I hated most of the 10 minutes. I can do basic mechanical stuff. Thanks in advance, Jim
Yes, unbolting the valve cover and cleaning the mating surfaces and adding a new gasket is the proper repair. If you hated most of the 10 minutes changing the fan belt then I wish you a good gift of patience. Old cars can be a patience bending experience, as well as expensive.
& Yes, You have the basic idea about your valve cover gasket....I strongly believe and recommend that you check/change your PCV valve at the same time. I strongly believe that if your oil is over filled(even 1/4 of a quart),it's gonna blow out somewhere. What part of Wyoming you located?
Dan, I knew someone would tell me about the money factor -- I tell ya, the only thing that gets more money from me than my wife and kids is my bike -- this car will be on a strict budget!! Jim
Hot Rod Daddy, A fellow Wyoming-ite! Cool!! We drove it from Evanston to Casper yesterday. Stopped in to see my folks in Green River. I think my father-in-law changed the PVC. In Green River, after lunch, my dad and I poked around under the hood. We checked the oil and found it to be too full. Your comment makes sense to me. Jim
Howdy Jim, I've been in all those towns. Green River is just about 15 miles away(if not closer to me). I don't mean to through a scare at ya',but your excessive blow-by could be an early sign that your piston rings are shot. A good compression test should verify the condition of your piston rings.
When changing valve cover gaskets, get a cork one and put a thin layer of #2 permatex on both sides. Dont over tighten or you will squeeze the gasket out between the bolts. If you got the bucks, buy a set for late model 5.0 Mustangs from Ford. They dont need any sealer and have a metal band in them that keeps them in place.
dang. i just bought a set for my car. i wish i would have known that. i bought rubber ones,i dont like the cork.
I use the reusable rubber/steel composite (FRF1ZZ6584B) valve cover gaskets. They're a bit pricey at $45 but you never have to replace them (and they don't get stuck on the heads or the vavle covers as there no sealant is required). My next choice would be the all rubber ones.
i'm in and out of the valve covers so often i like the studs in the heads instead of screwing into the heads each time. course the heads are aluminum but it makes it so much easier to put the valve cover gaskets on.
Ring up another "+" for hydraulic lifters (I know, they still don't optimize the h.p. Again, I'm into the "no-maintenace race car" ).
rick, i'm running hydraulic lifters but i recently broke 2 rocker arm studs and 2 lifters. i believe in the low maintenance also. got a stud girdle on the way.
yes! i agree! rubber steel composite ones well worth the money.. i haven't replaced them yet! the steel composite one go for oil pan gaskets too! earls has them too http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EAR%2D29E03AERL&N=115&autoview=sku but mr gasket and felpro also carry them my second would be rubber!
