There is no last adjustment, on stock 302 rockers, you just torque them down, to the specified torque, for the year of your engine.
If you have a 302...you have positive stop valve train.Simply turn the rocker arm nut till it stops,then give it another quarter turn to cinch the nut so it wont back off,and your done.You do not need to follow any particular fireing order sequence to do this.
Excellent! I'm so glad to learn this! Thanks! I did it like the video said but once I rotated the engine, one of the rockers became loose again. So, I'm just going to go around, loosen them up, tighten them and do the final 1/4 turn and I'll be done. Great!
Torque 15-20 ft. lbs do I really need this to do the torque http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1055/?image=large
I prefer to use inch pounds when that low of torqueing. I kinda like the description of this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KTI-72130/ . Seems kinda pricy but goes up to almost 100 ft lbs. Does all three by the description. Eliminates needing different ones untill you get to the higher ranges. I have clicker styles and I have to pay attention cause sometimes it won't click.
They (Ford) spec a torque for a reason, so I'd torque them...you don't need one to loosen off while driving .
If you're going to work on engines you must have a torque wrench, IMO. Rotating the engine to find the low spots on the cam allows you to check the push rod lengths and lifter movement. I just did this on my engine. With the each cam lobe on the low spot, I turned the nut till the rocker just contacted the pushrod, then about 1/2 turn to finger tight would compress the lifter a little. Then about 1/4 turn would put them at torque spec. That gave me confidence the push rods were the correct length. If you're reusing lifters, that will also ensure none are stuck. If you're re-using the push rods, check the ends for wear. The end that had been in contact with the lifter will look new-- the end that had been against the rocker might show wear. Put the least worn end up.
