Was getting ready to install the engine today and the original front dump pan wont clear the stroker kit. What options are there for mavericks with a 347. Thanks
Now after looking its the rear main studs.....the studs interfere with the pan......if i can find a favricating ahop open ill have them modify it to fit.
Craig are you using a girdle and studs? It appears my pan is much shallower in the rear then pics of other pans.... Is there different front sump pans? Mine is about 3 1/2" deep in the rear.
A stock rear sump pan I have here is also approx 3½" in rear... I think that's about the norm for stock pans...
Oil Pan Fit for 347 . We cut up another stock oil pan and added more height to increase the oil supply .. added another quart and a half . Requires a little welding and splicing but it helped a lot. Cometized (Chip)
Craig studs or bokts on the main? The girdle doesnt seem to be an issue but the arp main studs are. Cometized that appears to be my best option right now......have to find another oil pan first. Some 5qt pans i see have a small bubble on the rear that appears might work as well.. would have to get my hands on one and try it though....nothing is ever simple.
Hi Everett: I bought an Milodon Oil Pan ( still got it ) originally and we found it took up too much room because it had the bottoms that extended outward both directions. We used the Milodon Oil Pick-up and made OUR oil pan the same depth as the Milodon by cutting the sump area off and adding a metal strip about 1-1/2" or so wide. We also put a shelf in the front to prevent the oil from rushing to the rear of the car when accelerating . After we finished our welding procedures we cleaned it , filled it with water and left it overnight to check for leaks . We found " one " and when that was plugged (re-welded) we installed the pan.After filling our engine with oil we found a Longer dipstick and placed three small center-punch marks on the stick to indicate the different oil levels. Worked great and I always had a little more reserve in the oil department. This work gave us the room we needed without crowding. Cometized (Chip)
Cometized did the milodan actually fot in? What do you mean it took up too much space? Interfere with anything? Would you consider selling it?
He would have more info, but just to let you know the "probable cause of interference ahead of his response.. after mocking up my Canton road race pan.. the kick outs on both side are about 1/2 to 3/4" too wide to fit between the lower a-arms inboard mounting points. Because of that interference, I plan on modding/shaving my lower arm mounting points and part of the arm ends themselves rather than the pan. Primarily because I will eventually custom fab an AL pan(or have one built to my spec's) and don't want to cut it up too much to affect resale value to someone else not trying to fight it into a Maverick/Comet. Eventually my car will be chopped all to hell anyways as I build it around my future road-race engine.. so, I figure what's it gonna hurt to have another little trimming mod added into the mix. lol
Oops.. sorry for the above reply where I assumed you were talking about exterior clearance issues. I've run into this issue several times through the years. The fix is simple. 1. use machinists blueing/markers on the areas of stud interference. 2. mock install the pan without gasket and 2 bolts in the front to keep it squared up and lightly "grind" the pan against the rear studs to make witness marks. 3. use a cloth covered ball peen hammer/wooden dowel with rounded end works well too.. and dimple the pan at that location until you have about 1/4" clearance at the rear gasket mating surface. Be sure to pound on the pan with some supporting material under the pan(folded towels work well) or you can spread the rear rails slightly and make the pan fit funny. Don't ask me how I found that out. lol 4. install gasket and make sure it reduces that gap to within about 1/16 - 1/8" max 5. count threads or measure the amount of stud protruding above the nut and remove the stud. Remove that same amount of length from the stud while leaving slightly more height above the nut to enable location for a small bevel at the end of the stud to help with thread engagements during the reinstall. 6. Remock the pan with gasket and that should be it. A little here.. a little there.. and no one component needs to be over clearanced. The thicker one-piece gaskets with crush limiters help a little bit too. Plus, they leak less and are reusable if the need ever arises.
