Windshield Remove and Replace

I have a new weather seal for my windshield because its leaking when it rains. I got to looking at how the windshield is installed and the chrome trim and, well, it looks like it might be a job to replace it.

Does anyone have any hints or insite to make this easier or anything I need to watch out for before I break something? I called a windshield repair shop and was looking to just take it in and let them deal with it, but their doubt and confusion suggests I better do this myself.

Thanks for your help guys.
Northern

 

you need to find an Old School shop. Mustang resto shop will either do it or suggest the right place to get it done. ...tell them it's for a friend's...65 Mustang....

 

This is how I told my shop to do it. It is for a Mustang but the concept is the same.



Micah

Hopefully the Youtube links come through.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=vr7Prioj9Xo
www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY_b6838A8g

 

Those videos are pretty good. I still need to figure out how to remove the chrome trim from the clips without damaging it. Useful stuff 71M...thanks man.

I'd rather have a shop do the work...but I have serious trust issues when it comes to MY stuff. And finding the time to look for each shop, check their previous work, look for reviews, etc...some things I dont want to do, but I dont want to pay someone else to screw it up either. I'm sure some of you are the same way, so eh, we'll just git a little grease on our nuckles...thus is life.

 

prep seems to be the biggy. clean all the factory stuff off. prime any bare spots. I took and ground any high spots off the pinch welds. make sure the windshield stands are in place... make sure the installed gasket is centered in the window opening... get a set of plastic trim tools to work the gasket with... use the correct sealant...the last thing I/we learned was to put the molding clips in after the windshield is installed, that seems to make it less apt to leak...you will need a helper and make sure they know the plan from the start. these are some of the things that I have observed from watching/helping install about 6-7 windshields...

 

Nice quick overview. Now, hopefully I can remember all that when it comes time to do mine too. lol

EDIT: I just quickly ran through the Mustang vid and now have a question. Do any of you use the urethane below the gasket where it meets the window frame?

This is where I've seen leaks occur 10 to 1 compared to leaking around the rubber to glass channel. Well.. I've seen a lot of little leaks there too I suppose, but at least in the rating of leak severity anyways. The worst thing is they're a real bitch to get out later and the gasket will be toasted for sure.. but slicing the gasket 360* right at the edge of the windshield allows glass removal without fear of cracking.

PS. he used WAYYY too much urethane.. and the unsteady pumping can cause wavy and bumpy looking seals that you really need to lean hard on to smooth back down. Seen lots of them through the years. The channel around the seal is not large at all once the glass is in and I see some guys pre-load the seal up with a very small angle tipped tube of urethane before it even goes around the glass. Need an extra hand and go slower to keep clean but it works well. Just use very small amounts or you'll be cleaning both sides of the glass. Insides kinda tough to do once its in place. Don't ask me how I know that. lol

 

Northern,
You need a tool like this to get the trim off:
www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=T296+01
Also, make sure your clips are good an you have enough. I would suggest just buying new.

I had a glass shop come to my house and watched them like a hawk. I reinstalled the trim because I did not trust them.

Frank,
I did the clips before the glass went in to get sealant around them. I did not have the correct clips and had to pull them out and put others in. What a pain. I was worried I would break a stut, hit the glass or chip the paint.

Micah

 

Urethane? I used Butyl, thats what was there before, I wouldn't use urethane.

 

the problem with the clips in first...there will be no sealer at the base of the clip. we did a check on Tims glass and with air pressure applied to one of the clips we were blowing bubbles from all the clips. we removed the clips and applied sealer at their base and replaced the clip...no more leaks...

 

Why's that?

Price?.. or too hard to remove and redo later on?

 

Frank,
I went crazy with the butyl and encased the clips in it and filled in most of that gap between the seal and the body lip. It was a bit messy to get the trim on but I was hoping to get a good seal. Time will tell.

Micah

 

I have heard for one that urethane based glue hardens and then does not stick to the rubber gasket, as the car and the glass move, expand, contract, etc. (as you know they do) it won't stay sealed, and I just read this ....... "urethane is intended for newer auto glass installations, newer auto glass has the dark-colored band of enamel baked into the glass referred to as a "frit." The frit gives the polyurethane adhesive a surface to bond to, which is critical. Old glass doesn't have a frit band for polyurethane to adhere to so you're stuck trying to bond to a smooth surface, which isn't great for a lasting installation"
There is a reason Butyl is used, it stays pliable and soft, it allows the gasket and windshield to move, it is still available, 3M Bedding & Glazing Compound, I got mine at the local paint and body shop supply store.
Lots of information on this subject, just google it.

 

Moneymaker 1 hit the nail on the head. I have installed windshields for years until I retired. I know everyone likes to do things themselves but if you don't have the experience let someone else do it right. It's easier to do it right than have to redo it.

 

While you may very well be right about the adhesion to the windshield gasket.. there are special saline bonding agent primers(same stuff used to bond porcelain crowns and caps in our mouths) that come with the urethanes to prevent the glass bonding issues you speak of here.

Also, consider that these cars need all the structural help they can get and its very well known that the windshield ties the whole front pillar section to the firewall area on these cars. I myself will not want a pliable sealant on my autocross car and don't care if it will be a major bear(although windshield removal tools make it easier) or even need to be replaced, easy to say now I guess.

Urethane is the superior product and is why it's more expensive and long lived. I use the 3M stuff and it never fails. Butyl is old school, cheaper, and more easily removed. Same goes for all the sealants I've used in the construction industry all my life.

Thanks for the reply.