Howdy Yall, I just finished most of a swap from the factory 2 barrel with Autolite 2100 to a Weiand Stealth with a Holley 600 vacuum secondary with electric choke. Here are the issues I ran into: The heat tube that formerly connected from the exhaust to the electric choke on the Autolite...what do I do with that tube? I don't see anywhere to connect it on the Holley. The heater intake (?) port for the heater core..it's just aft of the thermostat housing and is a boss in the intake. The one on the Weiand is bigger than the one on my factory intake. Does anyone know the right part to properly connect the heater hose? The throttle...I had to compress it about 1" (can feel that in the pedal) to make it connect to the throttle on the Holley. Is there a way to adjust so the pedal can have its full travel? The kickdown (from my C4) doesn't even get close to being able to hook up. I bought the carb with a JEGS kickdown kit but it has a bunch of stuff with no instructions and none of it looks like it can make the connection. There's a vacuum tube coming from down behind the block that goes into a T. One leg of the T was going into a small vacuum port on the Autolite and the other leg of the T, which is slightly larger in diameter, goes into a canister of some sort, then into another port on the Autolite. What are these and where on the Holley would they hook up? There's one vacuum port on the rear of the Holley that is way too big for these hoses and there's two vacuum ports on the front of the Holley...way out of the way. Any ideas? This was my first even intake and carb swap and overall didn't go too terribly. Any help on these is appreciated!
I am running the same carb. The stock heater choke tube goes away since you now have electric choke. It goes down to the exhaust manifold. Can probably block it off with a screw. The water port I used a 90 with a hose barb on one side. Ill see if I can find the size I used. You need the kickdown kit for that carb. Its a bracket and a spring. Ill see if I have the part number. The canister that has vacuum lines is most likely the vapor canister from the fuel tank. I took mine off but I get a heavy fuel smell at times. I need to figure out where to run my vent to.
Scrap the hot air hookup... It's press fit into the exhaust manifold, tubes will probably break when you disconnect them... No need to block them off.. You'll need a reducer for the heater outlet(sorry dunno size), may be same as 390/428, all are marketed by Mustang suppliers... The kick down will require the Holley extender linkage, plus you'll need to tweak the linkage for extra length... http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/20...8&cadevice=c&gclid=CPOM9c6zucgCFQ8WHwodoTICTg Connect your PCV valve to connection under carb, if there isn't a vac port on rear of intake(my 8020 Weiand has one), then get some vac hose and plumb into the front port on carb that has constant vacuum... The tank vent mentioned was orig connected to the charcoal canister, do not plumb it to the manifold...
I used HOLLEY-20-91 for the kickdown linkage. Used a 90 Degree, 5/8 in. Hose Barb to 1/2 in. Male NPT for the heater hose.
Thanks for the quick reply! I will scrap the heat tube, easy enough. I will also check around online for the right heater hose adapter since it'll be a few more days before I touch it again. As far as the vacuum hoses at the back, as far as I can tell, it comes from the transmission area as a metal tube then transitions to rubber. Then it splits into one plain tube and one with the canister. What would be the purpose of that? Can I get rid of the T and just hook up from the transmission to the port at the back of the carb? My intake has two large vacuum ports but I obviously am using one per side going to the valve covers... I will have to look into that kick down further. Any idea about the throttle?
That 20-91 is a interesting kit, got any pict of install??? Here's mine, as I mentioned the rod will need tweaking at bend nearest transmission hook up... This is the water outlet I'm using, got it from a friend who didn't use it, it's a Scott Drake repo(can't remember for what)...
Turns out I already have the 20-91 kit. I just tried messing with it and I got the spring perch installed and all that but it looks like the lockdown adjustment screw will NEVER be useful...seems dumb of Holley for that. And that little 1" sheet metal extension for the kick down rod? Do they really think that's long enough? I have to hunt down a bolt to connect that anyway as they don't include enough bolts and I doubt that will be long enough as is...
Thanks for all the info guys. Looks like I have a plan for all the issues but one: the throttle cable. Is there any adjustment to that since I had to compress the spring an inch to get it to hook up to the ball on the throttle lever?
Like yourself, I had the same issue with my throttle compressed, so I had to fabricate a bracket to allow the throttle to be positioned further forward onto the carb lever. I used the bracket on my Holley 1850, 4010 and currently on Pro-Jection throttle body. Intake I have is original Toker 289......... David
Your throttle linkage is connected to the wrong place. It needs to go into the large hole. Jegs sells the aluminum bushing and ball-end you need for that. Use some blue thread locker on the threads, as you can tighten it only so much, and you don't want it coming loose.
Funny all the new Holley's that I have bought over the years never came with any of these adapter bushings, you would think they would have came with them.........anyways, did some checking and here are a couple of listings for those adapters to fit into the large 1/2" Holley throttle lever........ David http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hly-26-103/overview/ http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/qft-13-103/overview/
I have it like several of the others here but I'm willing to try anything so I ordered that $3 bushing. I also ordered the proper fitting for my coolant line. I got one at Ace but realized there's no room to screw in a 90...doh! I'm out of town until Wednesday so this will give some time for Amazon to ship the parts to me. Thanks for all the help!
One other thing you may want to check. I recently also replaced my carb with the one you have and had the same issue with the accelerator linkage being somewhat depressed on hookup. The problem I encountered though was that when the linkage was hooked up so that the pedal was not partially depressed, the carb could not be opened to full throttle using the pedal. When the pedal was to the floor, the carb would only open slightly past 3/4.
