weld it up completely, otherwise you wouldn't be able to drill the new hole precisely enough.
cowls are probably gone, you need to check these.
so did i. while sorting out my clutch issues, though i found some message board postings adressing this point. they claimed to use the...
zbar should have a center bolt, take it out - then you should be able to remove the frame side.
well, it's only been about a year. article got postponed, and is now in the current (october) issue! [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH]
if memory servers correctly, prices were in the $200 region...
here's the pictures i took while mounting mine: 72 Mercury Comet GT in Germany
could you please post some pictures of the mounting hardware? i have fabbed mine, but i'd like to see what the originals looked like!
don't use scott drake. it's cheap offshore quality. use moog parts, rockauto.com should have you covered!
thought you were going out of business? seems like your addiction is uncurable ;)
yes, the google translator has quite a lot to do on that site... didn't see it before, looks promising!
what do you need, who is doing the machining to your engine? will it need oversize pistons, what about the cylinder head? i'm sure that you will...
that already clears it up :) "E-T" is the manucfacturer, and something like this should get you going:...
post a pic of the mounting flange, that'll make it easier to tell.
that's how they're designed. the nut will bottom out, and that's it, you're good to go.
today, everything help up pretty well while driving to a car show. in my car, i use a centerforce DF clutch. if you google for "centerforce bent...
love it! couldn't see the spin coming :clap:
it was fairly easy to get the stub out - i had slotted the bolt a while back, to be able to get it in with a screwdriver from underneath. due to...
master parts catalog says: rh d0dz-16796-c lh d0dz-16797-c for the 70 model, part numbers use the b-ending: rh d0dz-16796-b lh d0dz-16797-b but...
d0dz-16797-c
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