302 intake opinions?

Will the air gap fit with a regular hood. tried one on my Comet and the hood would not shut with a ford 289 hipo air filter. so I went with a Weiand stealth with a holly street avenger carb.

 

if you use a short air cleaner it should clear. Also most people dont think of this, use a long bolt not a stud and wing nut to hold on your air cleaner. It gives you a little more room.

 

Parker "Funnel Web" 302w...
never heard of it. trying to look it up

 

Parker Funnelweb is a good intake for High RPM power, mostly a racing intake. For a street car I'd take that off and sell it and get an RPM, Air Gap, or Weiand stealth.

 

That seems to be the concensus on here and talking to people. Thinking of trying to find a used one tho... Any common problems with used intakes?

 

Since they are aluminum there is a chance they can be warped when removed. Also they can corrode over time in the water jackets if they don't use enough antifreeze. For the price it is best just to buy new. My brother has a used Edelbrock rpm or Weiand stealth, I forget which, we just took off to put on an Air Gap. Even if we sold it to ya for $75 and shippig would cost $25, you only be caving like $50 compared to buying a new Stealth or RPM manifold.

 

Not one person has asked you what cam you will be running. It is nearly impossible to recommend an intake for an engine without knowing the cam, the expected rpm range and whether or not you have headers or an automatic and what carb you will be using.
Each piece of the engine has to match the others in order to make it all work together to get the most out of the parts you have. If your cam is designed to turn 8000 rpm you are not going to be happy with the performance of any dual plane manifold and if you are using an 800 cfm carb then you are not going to enjoy driving the car on the street.

Lets start over and you can tell us the cam specs, the carb you think you want and the kind of exhaust - then it will be easier to make a good recommendation as to what intake you need.

 

Based off of what he says it has in it, Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, not fancy heads, and the fact that he dosnt want to rev it high and that it will be a street car I believe he got some pretty good info.

He didn't ask us how to build an engine, he asked opinions on intakes. even if the cam that is in the car is ment to rev to 8000 rpm, he dosnt want to do that and will be better off with a dual plane manifold for street driving.

 

More than likely the Funnel web on the engine is best for what the engine was built for, but he dosnt want to use it the way it was built for.

 

Thanks Ryan. Yea, it's a 600 cfm carb. I do have long tube headers for it already (thought i said that somewhere in here.. oops). The engine was already pretty much built minus all of the gaskets on the top end. I'll be assembling all of that myself.
Paul... Trying to identify the cam. Been waiting for a phone call back from the guy who built it since I bought it.
Don't really think I'll put it over 6000rpms at any point, definitely not on the regular. I'm a fairly moderate driver. Just needed a new engine and this one was an awesome deal. It is the stock C4 transmission from a 71 250ci mav that's in it...
I think that covers everything?..

 

But you see if the cam in it is ground to see 8000 rpm your engine will not see any torque until 4-6000 rpm. It will be a nightmare to drive on the street. What you need is a cam with about 214 duration at .050" with a lobe separation of around 110 to 114 degrees. That will get you to 5500 -6000 rpm with torque from 1000 to 3500 and good power (pulling power) from idle to 6000 rpm. For that cam an selbrock Performer manifold would be an ideal match. those mentioned earlier will give slightly higher peak values but lose average torque and hp over the idle to 5500 rpm range.
In a street engine the cam is the most important consideration.

 

the description of the motor shows a poor match of parts. the 600 cfm carb, and the factory heads would not work well with the intake. i would suspect that the cam in the motor is stock or very mild and someone just tryed puting on that intake for some bad reason. they most likely were very disapointed with the poor perfomance and sold the motor. it would be best to check what the cam is and not assume anything about it. at the least put a dial indicator on a rocker arm and see what the lift is.

 

Yea, the guy a bought it from thinks it's a mild cam.. Can't ask the guy who built it cause he died. The motor has not been run since being built and everything except the heads are brand new

 

should I be starting a new thread about my cam and engine build? I think the intake thing seems pretty settled and on point..

 

Well, since you know what intake to put on the engine then there is no problem -
as long as the cam, intake, carb, and exhaust is all matched it will be perfect.

Your engine is built on the assumption that it has a mild cam - and we know that because nobody knows for sure what was put in the engine other than it was a racing engine and had a big intake on it when you got it. I don't see any problem.