No track time. Like I mentioned, it was BONE stock internally, and pretty tired too. I did the swap because I was told it wouldn't fit. Drivability was the last thing on my mind. It had a wide ratio toploader with 4.11 gears and 25" tall tires... It drove like a dumptruck! The rpms rose so fast, too fast for the stock engine, and you would have to shift every 10 feet! So, no, it didn't do well, but only because it was not well executed. I saw a stock 67 Mustang coupe run 11.00 flat with a rebuilt 351c... He put it back together as a nice stock rebuild, and added a top notch Holley carb with headers and small solid cam. He got one run in at the track, and tech sent him packing because he didn't have ANY safety on his car required for that speed. FYI, the 70 model 4v was the gold standard for the Clevelands. (not counting the Boss)
Yes sir it is. I have the 1970 4v 58.66 cc quenched chamber heads with close to 11:1 compression ratio. I am doing a full roller cam and lifters with about a 550 lift and roller rockers. Stock those cleveland put out 300hp and 400 tq so with all that done to it and a nasty intake I think I can get close to 400-450 hp and 500 tq. all that in a 2500 pound car is going to be SCARY. I can wait!-Andrew
did you do anything to the heads? i would port them , open the already big heads up at least smooth them out
My C4 holds up just fine to the 351C in my '70 Maverick. It is a fairly stock motor and it will run 12.60s all day. It has 2V stock heads. It has been a great easy combination. The stock towers are notched and you can change spark plugs without taking off the valve covers. We are going to freshen up the motor this winter and hopefully not upset the apple cart too bad. I am going to put one in another Maverick next year.
On 4v Clevelands, you want to do very little. You can port the exhaust, however you should do NOTHING on the bottom of the port at the header. Just smooth the short side. Widen the exhaust port only far enough to smooth out the sharp transitions, then raise the port as far as practical... far enough to take out the port roof bump. On the intake, you should do nothing at all for street use.
Didnt port them but I just spent 650 bucks on machine work, got the crank polished, block cleaned, new freeze plugs, new cam bearings, heads resurfaced, new valve seats, new intake valves, vavle job, cylinder reglaze, and heads cleaned. It tore my pocket apart but it was worth it... looks brand new. This is going to be a street car and taken to the strip every once in awhile.
so if I was to do the mustang II front end swap is this what I need to order? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUSTANG-II-FRONT-END-SUSPENSION-1948-49-50-FORD-TRUCK_W0QQitemZ110056025296QQihZ001QQcategoryZ33583QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
id be careful ording that off of ebay its not for a maverick, prolly goin to have to mod the crossmember , not sure though
O trust me I wasnt going to order it, remember I am on a very tight budget I was just trying to get an idea of what you guys were talking about! lol see the thing is, I originally wanted to keep the six but it has many problems now, not to keep me off the road but I have exhaust leak many slow oil leaks, blowby, transmission slipping and I believe vacuum leaks somewhere. Now I was trying to find out what would be cheaper, rebuilding the motor and tranny I have now, or buying this 351c and tranny that I found for $250? I just need to do something cheap so I can keep this car as my daily drive.
