With teeth meesing from the dizzy they are now in the pan. Sounds like you have the right concepts but are short cutting it. We can see were that is getting you. Your pan will need to come off and the oil pump looked at too. You can't break in a motor just starting it and revving it a few times either. First motor I ever rebuilt I made myself a check list...it helps. All your push rods should have been checked before they even went in....accidents happen ....but don't make things too hard on yourself. Don
Hang in there 351wmav2....do not try to rush things, all things will come together. I've often heard tha BFH is the cure-all tool,but in your case....leave it in your tool box. Good-Luck
like doctor dono said the teeth need to come out. course first you gotta find them. if you get lucky there all in the pan. and change the oil again. good luck
Cam? Maybe you broke a tooth on the distributor gear with your BFH. Are you running a roller cam? If so, you need a distributor gear to accomodate that cam. They are different. Good luck, keep up the patience. Seth
i am wondering if there is a problem with my cam? all the problems with my valvetrain and now the distributor gears, i am wondering if i got a crappy cam. i tried it today and the pump turns freely, when i was putting the dizzy in i wasnt beating it in, i was just tapping, i figured that the oilpump rod was just in a bad spot.
All you have to do when that happens is rotate the crank until the dizzy drops in when the cam rotates the dist shaft into line with the oil pump drive shaft. Also, you can't assume anything about the cam and dizzy gear. Find out what cam you have and what dist gear they say to use with it. After several calls to Summit and Comp Cams, I found out my roller cam requires an iron dist. gear, not a steel gear. If you don't have the right one, it will eat up the dist gear or worse, the dist drive gear on the cam.
this is the cam i am running http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=443901&lvl=2&prt=5
can someone tell me why some of my rockers can be torqued like they need to, and the others have to be adjusted with the stop nut? i can see if it was all of them by why only like 3 or 4 of them?
The rockers stud may be loose if it is the press in type. You may have to go to screw in studs and recheck all clearances, even the cams grind. Is the cams actual lift the same as the specs?
The heads need to have rocker studs that screw in. In order to do that the tops of the stud bosses have to be machined off, the holes threaded with a mill to keep the angles right and then the studs can be screwed in. any competent machine shop can do this kind of work. If you bought the engine from Summit it should have been done. The reason this work needs to be done is that when you put in a different cam with higher than stock spring pressures the press in studs pull out because of the higher spring pressures. As they pull out the valves have to be adjusted to make up for it until you run out of adjustment threads and / or the studs pull completely out of the head. Your cam is what is known as an RV cam and is designed to give you good performance from idle to about 5000 RPM. It is a great street cam. The gear on your distributor needs to be replaced. Buy the right gear from your parts shop for your motor. (the distributor did come with the engine didn't it? You aren't trying to use the distributor from a 302 in your 351 - they use different distributors.) anyway the gear will come with a hole drilled to the shaft hole from one side but not all the way through. After you press it in place you are supposed to drill the hole the rest of the way through and then put the spring pin (roll pin) to hold the gear in place. You might be better off to just buy a whole distributor - that way you are sure to get the right one.
The only difference I've run into with the 302 and 351 dizzy is the firing orders,also I've never heard of having to drill through the dizzies shaft or the gear
Only the gear - and only when you buy replacement gears. That way the hole lines up perfectly with the hole in your distributor shaft. The distributor housing is longer, larger diameter where it goes into the block and the drive shaft for the oil pump is also larger. They do NOT interchange.
the rocker arms are stock 5/16 pressed in stud, cast iron rockers the distributor is a 1969 351w from a mustang points ignition, if i ever get these bugs worked out i will be going DUI (chevy hei ignition) or msd distributor and box, it has the 5/16 oilpump drive shaft, i made it out there today before work and my brother was the one that checked the oilpump for me, when i seen it this morning it was apparent he screwed up, the shaft is definately bent, i had a 5/16 socket and some extensions that i tack welded together as not to lose them in the motor, i had to hammer the extension just to get it to go onto the drive, as it was wedged against the side instead of sitting in the middle. i will try to drop the pan as soon as i get a chance to pull the pump and replace the rod, i just ordered a billet oil pump drive shaft, i have a hv pump so im sure it is just added stress on the shaft, i am also going to stick a stock pump back in while i am at it. As far as the studs go, the drivers side is completely fine, i stuck a straight edge across the top of them and the look fine, it is a brand new head...no miles. i am running stock stop nuts and as sugested earlier the cylinders i have been having problems with i stuck a grade 8 3/8washer under stock nut and insatlled a 5/16fine thread grade 8 bolt ontop of that for a stop nut and adjusted accordingly and now i have 180psi in all cylinders. all of my pushrods have been pulled and checked to verify the correct length and all is good, my problem with the mentioned cylinders is that the rods still seem a little long because if they are torqued down then they leave the valve slightly open.....the need to be able to adjust them is because of this. one other thing i noticed is that the specs on that cam say 8.0-9.5 compression ratio, my flat tops are around 10.5:1 is this a problem? when i ordered it i talked to a summit and a jegs tech told them everything down to the gear ratio of the car and they both agreed that it was a good cam for this application
i also forgot to mention that this is a motor from a 74'LTD if that makes a difference, and this is a complete rebuild, and the heads both have zero miles and are matching #s. i have another dizzy for it, i lost the original one during a move and found it recently, i had bought a new one in the meantime, as soon as i get this oil pump figured out i will be trying again
