all im sayin is that i think youll be happier with a street car making a boat load of low end tq rather than an engine that makes peak power at a high rpm.
No reason to sacrifice either. Read the article I posted. That engine is making 300+ torque at 3000 rpm. Max power is at 6200 rpm.
I'm beginning to wonder if the rest CAN read. Only thing I'd do different on the buiild you listed is go with a highrise dual plane like the RPM's or Ford's A321 and a Duraspark or Pertronix ignition.
Is there any particular reason why you don't want to spin over 6000? Just curious. I agree with the others.....400 shouldn't be out of reach. Not with the stuff you can get today. Good Luck!!
Engines with hydraulic roller cams don't do well much above 6000 due to the weight of the valvetrain. It takes an exceptional valvespring to stave off valve float. However, the good news is that that same hydraulic roller will make more midrange torque and power. That's why Ford went to them in the 5.0. Plus, stock rods are iffy above 6000. Good rodbolts helps, but...... The beauty of the setup is a stock (read cheap) bottom-end and good heads and roller cam will make great power.
Invest in better roller lifters than the stock Ford's and it'll spin to 7500 without problems. Crane sells stock type replacements that will do this. These are what I have in my 331. They cost about $50 more than new Ford lifters. I think Comp Cams sells these too. The stock rods (C8OE's, not the later F1TE rod) are good to 7500 too as long as you swap the bolts to ARP's.
http://www.airflowresearch.com/ford_dyno.php If you notice the second sheet down makes way more torque so it would likely be a better faster street car.
How about 399 @ 6,000...terry sent me these specs on a 306 with : TrickFlow Twisted Wedge Heads - TFS-5140002 Edelbrock Victor, Jr. Intake Holley 650 Hooker 6901 Crane hydraulic flat-tappett CR364551 comp Ratio 9.43
The question is, Horspower cost money, how much can you afford? A lot of different ways to go here, some more cost effect than others. Best bet would be to talk to a knowledgeable engine builer, tell them what you want, and get his price. Then decide if you can afford it. If you can, go for it!
My naturally aspirated 347 makes 422hp/ 440 tq. at flywheel with belt driven water pump and it's the chp non oil burning kit.(in dyno* with ideal conditions... also, this is at the flywheel, so after tranny, rear gears... etc... i'm a little under 400. I dont spin it above 6K and it's 10.0 : 1 compression. thats with the edelbrock performer rpm heads with 2.02 valves rpm cam, and intake. harland sharp roller tip rockers, windage tray, and the entire rotating assembly is balanced. ohh... for safety reasons its a good idea to go with a main girdle if you want to spin any real rpms for a bit. and an SFI flexplate/flywheel are pretty cheap.... think my scat one was 90 bucks... balancing helps a lot.... but uh..... i have a little over 4k in it with having to purchase the valve covers,HV fuel pump, oil pump, and oil pan.HEI distributor, etc.. other various items.... so that might be too far out there for some.. build it right... lol. Note: you can build the same power for less money... some of my money went to that "just in case" like the main girdle, scat flexplate, stud girdles, arp bolts. etc.
