Brake lights will not go out

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Jean Doll, Apr 26, 2012.

  1. AppMaverick

    AppMaverick Member

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    Manual brakes. I don't know how the brake light switch works... I should've tested this out today but worked on other stuff. Didn't realize this would become so popular...

    I did try unscrewing the pushrod all of the way so it was just hanging there, and the brake light stayed on... still have plenty of travel for the brake pedal to lift upwards
     
  2. AppMaverick

    AppMaverick Member

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    screw it. I'm going out there to check. Bed can wait
     
  3. AppMaverick

    AppMaverick Member

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    unscrewed the adjustable pushrod all the way until it disconnected. Jiggled/pulled and move it around on the end of the pedal...

    Brake lights still on. Has to be too much material on the eyelet of the pushrod putting pressure against the switch.

    So now is it best to alter the pushrod eyelet or the mounting hole for the switch?
     
  4. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    I was thinking the same thing. FWI...The pushrod eyelet is 3/16" from the edge.
     
  5. AppMaverick

    AppMaverick Member

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    3/16" from the edge of what?
     
  6. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    The edge of the pushrod. The end of the pushrod is 6-7/16" away from the edge of the pushrod.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    When us say getting the pushrod out, do u mean where it goes into the master?
    I have one of those adjustable rods like Applemav; it's been hangin on my wall for 2 yrs.

    When I got my car it had what I believe was a drum master. The pedal was abt inch lower than after I replaced the leaking master along w/ all the other wheel cylinders/calipers and rubber hardware. I believe the 73's came w/ 4 drums .. swaped the fr disk and left the master. The car had new rotors and drums, but the rest of the system was shot to hell. I believe they started the upgrades and decided to sell the car for whatever reason.

    Anyway, I did not keep the rod, 2 reasons, it was rusty and I did'nt know the rods were different.

    Someone had placed abt 3/16 spacer on the firewall side prior to the disk master. I installed. I am wondering if it came frm factory w/ it ... it seems to hve been shaped to the exact contour of the master flange?

    Anyway, Im glad I came across this thread. I can gain some valuable insight on the changes/adjustments I may have to overcome to get it working.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2013
  8. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    Good question.I haven't really looked on the Maverick yet but the stuff I'm familiar with has a stop with a rubber bumper to limit travel of the pedal away from the firewall.Maybe these cars don't have it and if that's the case I'm with you, how can a push rod that's too long keep the brake lights on?
     
  9. Moneymaker 1

    Moneymaker 1 Green Street Beasts

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    All I can tell you is my pedal only came up so far then stopped, I checked it with the pushrod off of it, the too long pushrod was keeping it pushed all the way back to it's stopping point, therefore keeping my disc brakes slightly applied and my brake lights on.
     
  10. AppMaverick

    AppMaverick Member

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    Oh awesome! Thanks dude! That saves me alot of guess and check :tiphat:
     
  11. AppMaverick

    AppMaverick Member

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    For the record:
    Grinding the end down totally worked!
    But my eyelet measurement started out at 0.156 inches before grinding down. Did the guess and check method.. Forgot to measure it after it worked. :tiphat:
     

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