I think I said that backwards but either way could I not still do it either way? Push or pull with a cable....regardless the lever pointing up or down? Its going be at least 2-3 weeks before I can attempt this so that is why I posted to see if someone has tried this already. Thanks JerryD
The factory cable setup on my AOD Bird uses a cable that loops from rear of shifter to lever that points downward, AFAIK aftermarket cable shifters are same... Still lever needs to be approx vertical when in neutral or the detent ratio will be incorrect and/or cable will probably bind...
Oh I meant to say I have a C4. But I would think that regardless if the shift lever points up or down a cable could do it. I would almost be willing to bet the detent ration is pretty close on the floor shifter and the clicks on the c4. The one I have I think is from a 67ish mustang. It isn't the maverick one for sure. I can understand that you must flip the lever 180 to use a rod. I mean if the linkage on my column shifter can shift the c4 like it has ....this should be a big up grade cause my linkage is all floppy and junky but it gets it in the correct gear no problems....and to me a column shift set up seems a lot more complex to me. But hey if I am wrong I am wrong. I just cant think from the top of my head where the lever is in park. I will have to look at it after work. Thanks for helping me out there Mr. Krazy. I have seen and read a lot of your input and I know that you are definitely one of the more knowledgeable ones I have read on here. And there are a lot more too. So thank you very much I do appreciate it big time.
The column shift lever points at approx 9:00 in park & 6:00 in low, plus I'm fairly sure it's longer than a floor shift lever that travels from approx 11:00 to 1:00... Improper length will upset the travel ratio, or in real world when properly set(adjusted) in park, lowest gear would probably be 2nd... With the lever pointing between west and south, I can't vision a cable functioning unless it wererouted on approx 45* angle from under transmission...
Oh ok I see now. Hmm. So I guess I would have to get one of those universal bolt on levers? If I did that I could set it pointing up and use a rod and heim joints?
Man thank you so much. It never dawned on me that the lever would be at that angle in park with column shift but it makes complete sense. I may go ahead and do the flip due to I have the dreadful lever seal leaking issue. I am worried the it will be difficult to get the levers back into their position in the throttle body. That is really the only reason I dont want to rotate the lever. If I did it ...are the lever(s) under any "spring tension" where you have to hold them in place and guild them into the throttle body or as long as they are lined up....is it just a matter of bolting everything back up? I am not even doing the kickdown yet and may not ever. I watched a video on youtube but you cant really tell what is going on at that crucial moment of re assembly. I'll say it.....I'm scared Paw LOL
Sorry but I haven't dissembled a C4 in 35 years(yes I believe it was 1980), getting the lever & linkage in place is a bit tricky but I'm stone cold on details... I going to have to pull mine apart when I do the floor conversion(have parts car) but that will probably be this winter...
I may just go ahead and bite the bullet and do it. I will post details if and when I do. But again thanks alot! I am also on the look for a set of used shorty headers as I have read on here intil me eyes bleed. It looks like the Thorleys or Hedmans. I will ask what you about motor mounts. Is there a different mount to use to get a little more clearance? I have read that a 66/67 mustang? Seems like I saw somewhere about falcon mounts too... And I have read to use a 3/8" - 1/2" spacer to lift the motor up some? I am not cutting the towers so I got to figure out the headers too. What would you recommend?
I have the stock motor mounts and the Thorley headers, can't see how a different mount would make much if any improvement... A word on the Thorleys while their construction/coating is first class, the driver side outlet is not angled for best clearance around steering or even a C4 bellhousing(required cutting)... I feel they are actually overbuilt... The thickness of three bolt flange makes it difficult to move the pipe for clearance...
here is the lever and neutral safety switch for a floor shifter. it's not that hard to flip. just hold the nut on the inside with a wrench, don't let it bottom out on the case to loosen/tighten the nut.
Do you have a power steering box with the manual pitman arm? I can see where you shaved out some of the cast on the transmission. Do they interfere with the pitman arm? Would you go with the thorleys again?
Thanks 71....I see it in my head I am just worried about where the levers go inside the throttle body. Is it pretty straight forward?
I have some variables that make me wonder if the heads aren't part of my issues... But Bryant went off on a tangent about fitment, so more than one of us have had issues(may want to search his posts)... The steering is 100% stock P/S... Check out this thread in my build for other comments on the headers... http://mmb.maverick.to/threads/my-1972-c0met-gt-clone.95746/page-4
I amost wonder if some of the "block hugger" types I see that seem like they dump almst straight down sort of in the center? Do those hit the crossmember/steering rods etc?