Car just sputters when I try to start

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302645865888?ViewItem=&vxp=mtr&item=302645865888

 

Ah crap. I was hoping I wouldn't have to order it off of eBay. I appreciate yalls help

 

Could I just run a permanent wire for sending power to the coil and use a switch to turn it on and off? Like running it through the firewall into the interior?

 

I swear, this thing is gonna end up being so jankey but I don't mind.

 

Any switch that can handle five amps will supply power to coil... BUT there is a resistance wire in harness that must be used or a external resistor added... Without resistor the coil will overheat and/or points burn up...

Have you verified loss of power to coil when switch is in run position?? Connecting a test light to coil power feed will verify at what position of key there is/isn't power...

 

You could run it with a wire from battery to the coil but you will need a resistor in series on the wire to keep from burning up the points. You could also put a switch in line to turn it off

 

Krazy Comet beat me to it

 

Yes I'm 99 percent sure there's no power going to the coil when the switch is in run position. my 1 percent of doubt makes me want to try to adjust the switch again. Although I did already try that multiple times. What kind of resistor would I need to safely feed power to the coil with a toggle switch?

 

you can get them from most auto parts stores. I got one from Advance Auto. afterwards I found the old one was out of adjustment, returned the new one. ( it was bad out of the box)
I suggest you do it right, if not if you have a problem on down the road it will make almost impossible to trace.

 

Not so for a '70, those switches are unique to the year... It's possible to replace harness connector and use the '71-later switch...

 

good info...
mine was a 73.

 

I keep seeing ballast resistors. Would one of those work?

 

Assuming the contacts in switch connector are same in real life this may help... Power to coil is supplied by a pink wire, this is the resistance wire already mentioned... From there it travels to the fire wall connector... In engine bay(second diagram) wire is red/green and feeds to coil... ASSUMING connector through firewall is OK, all you have to do is connect power to pink wire... The firewall connector could be the problem in first place... Before any jury rigging you should verify the firewall connector is OK...

NOTE ... DO NOT CUT the pink wire, that is the resistance wire... Connect power to connector on switch...



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I suggest you fix it correctly by replacing the factory parts required.

 

Guys I've narrowed it down to the ignition switch. Considering I cant get a new switch right now, I need a real solution. I'd love to have everything original, but I can't really afford to be picky right now. This thing by no means is going to be original anyway. I'd rather not order an original ignition switch and wait like 10 days for it to come in the mail just to find out that 40 years of age and use ruined the one being sold to me.