Just saw some videos of axle wrap on YouTube - excellent examples and I hadn't realized just how bad this can be.
Was temporarily stuck in Rockford, IL on Friday and was in a shop with a 1966 Mustang on a rack. I hadn't realized the Mustang was a Uni-body and discovered a four-link set-up with the coilovers at a 60 degree angle off the rear of the axle. Similar penetration as exhibited with a bar through the rails, but if a four-link can be achieved on the Mustang, why not the Maverick/Comet? And, obviously there isn't the demand for our cars compared to the Mustang, but I'm a bit baffled that no company has never endeavored this. When I spoke with Rod & Custom regarding work on a prototype, they said they'd tried and there was no room to do this. Yet, I see this is not true as others have embraced challenge and are successful.
Go back and read this article; http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=82978&page=78 Did you take any pictures of the setup????
My rear coil over 4 link was based on an installation that Terri Browning Brigham had done on her pink Maverick using parts purchased from Art Morrison in Washington State. Her installer still had to cut into the floorboards, for the top links, and her back seat was destined to become history. I looked at it long enough and suggested to her a way to keep the back seat by cutting the seat frame to clear the top link channels and it worked. I just built mine very much like hers buying some of the parts from Morrison. The big problem is finding a set up with a design that will not cause cutting into the trunk floor or the rear floor.
I still don't think that set up is right. I honestly would run that set up. I really like Mav1970's set up. Topoliner's upper control arm angles just seem to tight causing to much twist on the mounting points.
That design is calling upon the actual 4 links to locate the rear, side to side, instead of a separate pan hard bar or a Watts linkage. Not too fond of that principle. I believe in having the links do only their job - not having them do 2 jobs - Also the shorter a moving trailing arm is, the quicker the geometry will change and his top links are big time short
I have built numerous triangulated 4-links for Jeeps and have always used a 4 link calculator to get the proper lengths and angles and I am going to tell you that does not look like it is anywhere close to right. I have also put together a few 4 links with a track bar or pan hard bar and they work well. That is why I like your set up. The problem with the other set up is if the calculations are not right and you use a hard mount bushing you get bind and rear steer not to mention the stress on the mounting points.
I'm going to be using a Watts setup but still have to build a frame for it behind the rear and there will be no rear steer
I personally just would not use any vertical shock set up on the rear of any street car,unless you corner slowly,sooner or later it`s going to get you in trouble.
I'd really like to see the pictures. I have only done a couple of unequal length 4bar setups, and all for road racing. A long time ago Herb Adams told me that a shock works at it's optimum when mounted perpendicular to the roll/bounce centerline(in a perfect world), but usually we don't have that so he said the bottom shock/coilover should be mounted 6/8" below the centerline of the alxe and with a maximum of 20 degree slant(towards the centerline of the car)............15 would even be better (on a coilover that is slanted 15 degrees you need to stiffen the spring by 25% because you loose the supporting weight from the spring) and 5" front the face of the brake rotor. The top mount for a coilover should be at 15 degrees towards the center of the car and for shocks it should be 10 degrees. For drag racing you don't see many shocks tilted at an angle.....IMHO
These guys dont appear to be having any issues with vertical mounting and their cars are some of the best at cornering in the bussiness. http://www.detroitspeed.com/1964-1970-mustang-products/041730-mustang-quadralink.html
In the interest of time-saving in not reading through the 45 pages of your build, have you installed this? If so, thoughts on if you had to do it all over again?